Thread: $100 for resolution of my dreaded ignition issue.

Money talks. And I for sure would not want to not get paid for my time.

I'm a good mechanic and I'm stumped so if we figure this out that would be amazing.

please check this thread out!. (I know you might not be setting a code) Wires tend to break a lot inside the casing and can be very hard to diagnose.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/65934-2-1-error-code.html

Went over grounds. Get 0.01
Replaced ignition switch tumbler
I get battery voltage cranking.
The fuel pump primes
The injectors pulse
Changed spark plug wires
Replaced dizzy
Replaced ignitor chip
Replaced coil
Check fuses/relays
Tried a different ECU
Replaced the coil resistor/condensor

I'm going to replace the engine harness next.

Ill take a look. Thanks!

Are you getting your 12v to the coil with the ignition on? If so then your fuses are fine. Your 12V to the coil is supplied by the Engine control fuse in the box in the engine bay by the battery. Its a brown 25 amp fuse normally unless switched out. If your getting your supply to the coil your fuse is good. Again ignition on.

If thats good and your getting faint or no spark im willing to bet that your ecu connector is not fully seated. Sounds like a vibration issue and the pins are not contacting right. Also check for any debris in the connector between the pins that may cause issues.

These harness' are stupid simple. Your coil is supplied by the ignition power from the engine control fuse, goes to the coil, from the coil to the ignitor and then to ground, switch to ground controlled by the ecu signal. In between the coil and ignitor is a voltage buffer that just buffers the voltage spikes caused by the coil firing. Its the little square box looking thing on the harness between the coil and ignitor. It really plays no part other than that signal buffer. The connection to the ignitor should still be made. You could always continuity check from the coil to the ignitor.

Black w/ red stripe is the coil supply, then green w/ yellow stripe goes to the ignitor. Continuity check from the coil green w/ yellow to the ignitor green w/ yellow, should be no resistance.

Other than that, it seems the ecu isnt triggering the ignitor and my suggestion is to check the ecu connector and check for any metal debris in it.

Did you set the tps? That dying issue sounds like the Iacv.pop the intake mani off if you gotta highport makes it easier.take it apart clean it wit some gas.put it back in w a lil silicone.disconnect tps start car once it warms up tighten idle screw snug.take the car around for a while.shut off start half hour later drive rigyt away.if it doesn't shut off anymore that's the issue replace when possible.

Thanks Ashton! I will try all the steps you've provided. I have a complete understanding now and what to test. I will update you all asap.

Thanks everyone for pitching in!

TPS is .46 closed and the carr will not start now to test IACV. it is a SR20VE

I don't see the IACV being the problem.. I've had a huge leak in it, unplugged it and the worse thing that happened was it fluctuated my IDLE...

Correction you can pull codes, keep in mind OBD1 just doesn't really do codes. OBD1 ECU's only throw a code for a few items.

I would say get a digital volt meter and start testing the wires, resistance should be minimal between the ECU and those plugs.



Correct IACV will not prevent you from starting the car. I ran without an IACV on an OBD1 ecu for a couple months.