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Thread: Pro's and cons of using a torque-plate while boring a block

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Posts: 21-30 of 39
2013-03-25 17:04:49
#21
Originally Posted by nismo_star
did the machine shop you had do the original bore n hone use a tq plate ? if yes, are your pistons good ? was the motor nice and quiet ? how is the block bore now, nice hatches on walls ? Answer no to any of the above questions, would suggest you go 87mm. If you answered yes to all of the above questions, re-use your old pistons and make a few passes on an oil /wd40 soaked 320 grit ball hone, clean the block, keep it freshly oiled, don't let dirt inside, and reassemble with new rings/ bearings.



It's not a matter of a damaged cylinder wall or something, everything is still fresh from the shop and BNIB. The thing is, they DIDN'T use a tq plate. And I wanted a fresh, good block to begin my build with.
2013-03-25 17:05:56
#22
I would return/sell the 86.5mm pistons and go 87mm. =/

However, you might change your mind once you see how costly it is going to be to use a shop with a head and transmission torque plate. I doubt there are many out there and shipping will be involved.
Last edited by BenFenner on 2013-03-25 at 17-07-27.
2013-03-25 17:11:32
#23
tq head on block on engine stand, flip block over, and check bores w/ bore gauge 3.405-6" in 8 places per cylinder or have machine shop check it. I think you are looking way too far into it, I'd be more worried about ring gaps and temperature of where you are building the motor.
2013-03-25 17:18:36
#24
The thing is, someone I know has acquired a torque plate for an SR block, and he rents it out. He could either ship it to me (it should be just under max weight), or I could pick it up. And The Netherlands isn't that big to begin with.


I could even go and pick it up, and drop off the plate and my block (though I would need to pick that up at the other side of the country) at the shop I went to, they were not that expensive. About €250 for boring, honing and head/block shaved. Plus cleaning and flushing all oil passages. I've asked another company (that's closer to the blocks location) if they could do a re-bore, and if they use a torque plate, but no reaction as of yet. Though, when I asked them for an invoice on the work to be done on the head and block, they asked €700. So they are VERY expensive.
2013-03-25 19:49:52
#25
I would do as nismo star suggested and bolt the head on then take measurements of the bore in multiple places. This is why you should inspect and measure the bore prior to having machine work done or ordering parts.
2013-03-25 20:07:04
#26
Yeah, but I was getting new parts anyway, as well as a fresh surface on the cylinder walls. Before the machine work was done.

But I'll see what I can do. I will still put and Expression of Interest in the classifieds section.
2013-03-25 20:20:58
#27
Originally Posted by M0J0
Yeah, but I was getting new parts anyway, as well as a fresh surface on the cylinder walls. Before the machine work was done.

But I'll see what I can do. I will still put and Expression of Interest in the classifieds section.


I would contact andreas miko for a bare ve block. I sure shipping is going to be rough to the Netherlands.
2013-03-25 20:42:39
#28
Yeah, and for the price of shipping, I could as well have the current block machined again :P
2013-03-27 09:12:31
#29
Should I use the headstuds and gasket I will be using in my build while boring the block with a TP? Or will any studs/gasket do? I mean, I can re-use my Golden Eagle studs and MLS headgasket after the work has been done, right?
2013-03-27 12:59:46
#30
Others, do you need a gasket when using a torque plate? I wouldn't think so?

Contact Golden Eagle or read their literature to find out if they are re-usable. If so, then you should be good to go there. If they aren't, you can probably get away with stock bolts or whatever.
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