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Thread: Pro's and cons of using a torque-plate while boring a block

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Posts: 11-20 of 39
2013-03-25 13:47:35
Dammit Ben, did you NOT watch my video??
2013-03-25 13:52:22
You posted that while I was typing.
2013-03-25 13:53:00
Originally Posted by BenFenner
You posted that while I was typing.

it took you 7 minutes to type that? :P
2013-03-25 13:55:49
I had this open in a tab for a while until I got to it Mr. Chuckles.
2013-03-25 14:05:29
Originally Posted by BenFenner
I had this open in a tab for a while until I got to it Mr. Chuckles.

The forum gives you a warning that there was a post made within the time!
2013-03-25 14:20:45
It did warn me! I live on the wild side!
Last edited by BenFenner on 2013-03-25 at 20-40-00.
2013-03-25 16:41:49
Alright, so what would you do in my place?

I've had it bored and honed to 86,5mm, for 86,5mm pistons.

Would you re-hone it at 85,6, but this time with a torque plate?
Or would you re-bore/re-hone it to 87mm with a torque plate and buy new pistons?
2013-03-25 16:44:29
Is the block special? If not, I would get another block (people have bare blocks just laying around, I know it) and have that bored... But now I'm thinking... Why the hell are you boring to 86.5mm to begin with? To clean up the cylinder walls? At which point a replacement block (with matching pistons) would also solve those problems too.

So what's your goal exactly? Why did you bore to begin with?
2013-03-25 16:57:04
did the machine shop you had do the original bore n hone use a tq plate ? if yes, are your pistons good ? was the motor nice and quiet ? how is the block bore now, nice hatches on walls ? Answer no to any of the above questions, would suggest you go 87mm. If you answered yes to all of the above questions, re-use your old pistons and make a few passes on an oil /wd40 soaked 320 grit ball hone, clean the block, keep it freshly oiled, don't let dirt inside, and reassemble with new rings/ bearings.
2013-03-25 17:01:27
Well, I have 1 of the few VE's in the country (The Netherlands), so yeah, it is kind of special.

And I wanted the block to be in the best state it could be, to begin with. As I had to get new pistons anyways (turbo in the future), I figured, if I get new pistons, I want a clean cylinder wall as well. And I didn't want to risk having the cylinder walls to be too thin, so I got the 86,5 ones.

Getting another VE shortblock will probably be more expensive than having it re-bored. If I do run into a VE over here, it's usually a complete block. And very expensive (think €1000-1500, which is about $1300-1940). And I don't want a DE, since I would have to drill a hole for the VVL solenoids, as well as lose the oil squirters.
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