Thread: S3 cams install tips

Out of like 6 cam installs in the SR20, the only time it went all wrong for me was when I didn't remove the tensioner and tried the wedge method. Mostly my fault, but there is a lot of ambiguity using the wedge method. With the timing chain tensioner, it's either removed or it's not. (well you know what I mean)

Plus, you should probably be doing an oil change anyway if you're putting in cams, ESPECIALLY if they are brand new. So if you remove the oil filter, the chain tensioner is easier to get at. You just need a good angle and a long 1/4" drive ratchet extension, and its only 2 nuts (either 8 or 10 mm, I can't recall right now)

Be careful with those little nuts that hold the tensioner on BTW, the last one left on can fly off when almost removed as the tensioner opens up. And yeah some oil will be dripping so have a rag handy.

Also, if you do remove the oil filter to remove the chain tensioner, I suggest stuffing a rag down the oil filter hole to prevent any foreign objects (i.e. - the chain tensioner nuts) from falling down in there. The chances are remote but it's possible.

Hmmmm what else.. depending on how you remove your valve cover or how old it is, you may need a new valve cover gasket - put some permatex on the half moons when reinstalling. Make sure none of the rocker arms or valve shims are moved off of their positions before you start putting things back together, its easy to move a rocker arm slightly out of place when trying to seat the new cams.

And I also agree with whoever said it, do 1 at a time.

Excellent info guys,i have 2 questions,

To set the engine at tdc,its the second mark on the crank pulley,rotated clockwise,i also belive i can stick something down number one spark plug hole ect to find tdc also ??

I could do with some more info on the triple check your cam chain links after you've put them in part please ?

I have a updated tensioner to put in,so tensioner will be removed ect for the job,i think removing one cam will be best also then i can look at the other cam for reference !

Thanks.

Yeah remove the 1st spark plug and stick a long magnet thingy down (the magnet on a stick thing) and it will rise and fall when u rotate the crank

The best method is to change oil as you change oil then after 300-500 miles. Since good oil is not cheap, I usually just drive on the same oil and change it 200-300 miles in.

and take pics of things if youve never done it....it helps...i have a thread...search someting like cams and tdc

Ok yeah that's true. When I did my Tomei's I did the same thing, because they were used anyway and probably any metal shavings were already run down from when they are made.

A bit off topic but does anyone remember when a quart of Mobil-1 synthetic was like $3.99? Now it's like $10... that was only like 8 years ago too..

That was before the formula change too right....boo for formula change

A 5 qt. jug is around $26 @ Walmart. Costco carries the qt. size in packs of 6. I haven't checked their pricing lately, though. I'm guessing it's still under $40.

@Storm88000: Use Rotella "T" 15W-40 for the turbo vehicles (held up well on my last trackday. About 1.5 hrs of track time on a T3 turbo @ 10-12lbs with a good amount of flogging!)

Its less than $20 for 5qts and works just as good (if not better) than Mobile 1. You end up paying extra for the name in this case IMHO...........

http://www.sr20-forum.com/naturally-aspirated-all-motor/43837-how-check-camshaft-timing.html