Thread: S3 cams install tips

Hi,i will be fitting these next week,never fitted cams before,i have just about done everything else !

So i am looking for any tips/advice,any special tools needed ect.


Thanks.

Check the HOW TO: section.

REMOVE THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER

Do not try that "wedge" method.

It is two 10mm nuts I believe, maybe 8mm I forget.

I prefer JWTs wedge method ! Taking the tensioner out is not necessary and lengthens the time to do the job.

Extra tools I needed were a short well 24mm socket, an inch/lb torque wrench and a 1" open ended wrench. To turn the motor over, stick it in 5th and rotate it by spinning the right front wheel. Using a socket on the crank bolt is cumbersome.

Follow the FSM with regards to torque sequence and torque spec. Make sure you don't move the crank once the cam gear bolt is out. Move the cam with the 1" wrench to get the gear to seat on the new cam.

Make sure you use the keyway on the cam gear and not the dot when setting to 10 and 12 o'clock

Forgot to mention, do them one at a time. Start with the exhaust cam.

Take your time, but do not over think sht.

My first time with cams only took 1.5 hrs.

Remember to zip tie both sprockets

Do one cam at a time!

Enjoy (JWT cam swap guide)

Looks like you are in the UK so you "may" have the RR version of the SR. If so, make sure you are getting the correct cams!

Good luck!

Why do you guys suggest doing one cam at a time? I personally set the first cylinder to TDC, then zip ties the sprockets to the chain, then pull the chain tensioner (I should really try the wedge method). Afterwards I brake loose both of the cam bolts, carefully remove the sprockets remove both cams. Install both cams, get the sprockets on and slowly tighten everything up. Granted I had to pull both cams to switch out the valve seals and springs anyway. But as long as you zip tie them and just count the chain links after install to verify, you should be good to go.

this^^^^. especially if your not doing cam gears as well.

i made a wedge, to me it was a waste to time. remove the tensioner, it's the easiest way

triple check your cam chain links after you've put them in.check them, rotate the crank 4 durations,check them again,rotate,check.

Sticking a wooden block in to keep the tensioner from pushing out is way easier than having to remove the oil filter, the tensioner (loosing those little nuts and getting oil everywhere), and having to relock the tensioner (again another oil mess) and then making sure it unlocks. The trick to getting the gear back with no slack is to rotate the cam until it seats. If you try and rotate the gear, like I think a lot of guys try and do, then ya, it doesn't work because the chain is locked down with the block. Using the block method also insures the crank doesn't move and that the chain doesn't slip a tooth on the crank gear.