Thread: auto 1.6 - manual 2.0 swap no crank

yeah it has inhibiter clutch relay on the box. its a grey relay.. i also did not change the interior harness and my cluster works.. only the speedo dont work and thats because i dont have a electric speed sensor hooked up

Are you guys using the GA cluster or the SR cluster?

^You don't have a TACH because you were auto with the GA, but did you stay with the GA cluster, or you using the SR cluster? I will be using the 91-92 SE-R cluster when I do my swap from a 91-92 1.6L. I want everything to match up as much as possible. 1.6L auto and 1.6L manual have differences in the wiring. I would think the same for the 2.0L auto and 2.0L manual.

Seriously all I had to do was wire up the neutral safety switch, I didn't mess with any wires at the relay box for the inhibitor. If you can find that 8-pin connector near the driver side fusebox then you can wire up the neutral safety switch and be good to go. I posted the wire colors earlier in the thread.

GA cluster



NO.. i dont have a tac because mine is not a SE model. the 1.6 did come with a tac.. it just to be the SE model which came with everything SER except the motor.. and yes i am using the GA cluster but the only reason that works is becase i matched up the same year computer harness which was from a 94 ser. any other harness and nuthing will work. i had a 93 computer harness and nuthing in my cluster worked. changed it to a 94 and everything works. matching years will safe you headaches



i see what i can do

squirlz : I'm using the ga cluster. I have an se-r cluster available but im too lazy to put it in.



Everyone else : I drove my car for the first time after my bluebird swap and it seems to run rough especially in low rpms and idle. I am using the JDM ecu, jdm o2 sensor, jdm IACV, USDM TPS, and USDM maf. I feel like there is still something wrong which is causing it to not run as good.

Symptoms are
-car dies occasionally (happened about 3 times today)
-idle regardless of temp. sometimes it idles at 1.5 - 2k steadily then it will drop to about 1k and become unstable until it dies. the higher the RPM the more steady the idle is.
-When i am in gear already and i give it gas in the lower rpms, the car jerks due to cutting out? (throttle/fuel cut? ) it cuts in and out which causes it to jerk, but only happens in the lower rpms. once i hit 3k, it becomes steady. I have a feeling this cant be good for my clutch.
-it sounds loud and rough.

What i think the problem is
-vacuum leaks?
-exhaust needs to be done (it is leaking near the factory u12 downpipe and where it connects to my old exhaust system, big leak).
-timing, which is hard to set right now seeing how crappy it is idling.

it appears to run rough regardless how high up i go (RPM), but it runs better and doesn't cut out the higher i go.

anyone have any ideas besides the things i have mentioned? could this be because i am using the usdm maf with the jdm ecu?

thanks guys.

Even though i am not suppose to answer this question i will anyway.

I would check the things like you said, vacuum lines, boost leaks, fuel pressure, and all sensor connections. You can also check the TPS voltage just to make sure its where it should be.

The SER cluster should not work, i am pretty sure the pin outs are different.

:P i didnt mean to exclude u from "everyone else"

edit : "everyone else" -----> "everyone"

Thank you, i feel better now.

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