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Thread: auto 1.6 - manual 2.0 swap no crank

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Posts: 21-30 of 40
2008-05-16 18:25:07
#21
man the problem with that is if i see no pics your talking greek to me. i am so bad with electical its not even funny.. i cant read diagrams if it depended on my life... you should take pics lol................ please please please!!!
2008-05-16 18:30:45
#22
Problem is I dunno if B13/B14's are even remotely similar in terms of how they are wired, I'd assume they are. I'm downloading a B13 FSM right now and I'll show you what I'm talking bout...
2008-05-16 18:52:23
#23
Aiight if I'm reading this correctly the wires you want on the Auto harness should be the brown/white and black wires off the 8-pin connector. Wire those two up to the neutral safety switch, iirc I don't think the order matters, if it doesn't work then just switch them, but those should be the two wires you want. If you had pics of your wiring that'd help too.


Edit: sorry for threadjack, I'll take this to PM's
2008-05-16 18:57:08
#24
its not thread jacking because we are all having the same problem lol
2008-05-16 19:04:46
#25
Yeah I think I have it figured out. What you guys want to do is find the 8-pin connector and wire the brown/white wire to one of the wires of the neutral safety switch, which is found on the back of your tranny near where the shifter connection bolts up, and the other wire you will want to ground to the chassis.
2008-05-17 02:13:31
#26
Originally Posted by jen36
thats what im saying if you alread have a 5 speed you shouldent need to change your inside harness..you alreayd have the Neutral sefety switch to your pedal and everything else.. it would be cake doing your swap


^Good to hear. I have read Crim's thread several times and I decided that it would be best if I just go ahead and find a 91 or 92 1.6L that is already have 5 speed and go that route. I want something that is a little cleaner than the 1.6L auto I currently have. It's not to be, but it could be better.

I would like to see more pics of the problems everybody having as well. PICS just do more justice sometimes. Jen the 91-92 vs 93-94 cluster still is a little cloudy. I know that they are different from speedo to electric, but what runs to the tranny on the 91-92 that doesn't on the 93-94?

I will post pics of my spare tranny I have. I think it came out of a 93 NX2000 and has around 90K on it. Is there a way to verify the NX tranny from the SE-R by code?


EDIT: Would you recommend to stick with a 91-92 1.6L 5 speed and matching it to the same year 2.0L or would a 93-94 be ok. I remember reading in 93W91SER XE-R thread on the old forum that he had to do a lot of wiring for the cluster and it still didn't work properly.

NOTE: He had a 93 4door 1.6L that was already a 5 speed. He was using parts from a 91 SE-R, this is my question.
2008-05-17 06:14:50
#27
well today i went out and tried to use the jdm ecu with my ghetto obd2 to obd1 harness that i made. to be honest i thought it would be a useless attempt because i had no faith in the ghetto thing. Along with the ecu swap, i also swapped in the jdm o2 sensor. put in the key, turned it, heard the pump, cranked it, and to my suprise it started and idle'd!!! boy was i happy.

MR-4door : i dont think i will be relying on the calum ecu. I have a local tuner who uses nistune (which is very similar to calum if not identical). For now I will use the jdm ecu until i have my nistune boards and hardware ordered.
I did not swap the interior harness going from auto 1.6 to 2.0 manual, however in order to get the starter to crank when you turn on the ignition, you either need to bypass the inhibitor relay (found in the relay box under the hood, passenger side) or ground the wire that goes to the inhibitor switch, which will cause the relay to activate the connection between the ignition and the starter motor.
I also do not have the neutral safety switch. I dont think I will be needing it or want it. However, there was a plug which plugged in to my pedal. It was previously taped up under the dash. If i wanted to have a neutral safety switch, I would somehow have to wire that in. However, i do not have the clutch inter-lock relay in my relay, so i dont see how it is possible.

jen36 : you cannot bypass the inhibitor relay by simply taking out the top pin part, and inserting a wire to jump it. You must leave the relay in, and find out which wires plug into the inhibitor relay. One of the connections will activate once a ground is present. You must find out which two wires make up this connection, and jump these two wires before they enter the relay box so that the connection is always present.
2008-05-17 14:29:29
#28
nice^^ now i wish i knew how to read a diagram so i can know which ones are the correct wires


note. the relay box is the black box next to the battery right? its a grey plug right? just making sure im right

2008-05-17 15:22:21
#29
project-SX, does your cluster work? Speedo, tach, lights, warning lights? Or are you using the stock cluster that was in the car with the GA? I know when i accidentally plugged in the GXE cluster nothing worked, but with the SER cluster everything works fine.

Maybe we should get a list of what is needed for the swap if you do not use the SR harnesses. I know this thread will help a lot of people as is but maybe an easier to read straight through guide in the How To: section.

Jen36, B14's are different, many of the basics are the same but there will be some differences that you will have to figure out.
2008-05-17 21:46:58
#30
squirlz : my cluster works perfectly. Gas indicator light lit up when it was supposed to, no CEL surprisingly, Air bag light is still blinking like the way it was before the swap, lights work, speedo and tach works. I did not have to swap over the interior harness from an se-r, however my clutch safety switch (or watever you call it) does not work. I can start the car without being on the clutch.
I am really surprised i dont have a CEL because i am using an auto u12 BB ecu.

Could it be because i used my obd2 to obd1 harness which could have taken care of it?

Jen : the engine bay looks similar but im sure it may be wired a bit differently. Our relay box is a bit bigger than that box found beside your battery, and it is located right beside the power steering resevoir. Your best bet is to look up the "Starting system" in the b13 FSM, and find out how it is wired. Look for the part where it is labelled "Inhibitor Relay" and it will tell you which wires come into and out of it. The color may be described like "B/W or B/Y" which means black white (black with white stripe), and black yellow.
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