Thread: Need some valve train help.

Just re-lash cylinder # 4. Get a thinner flat shim or slotted shim by .002-.003" and replace the shim of the exhaust valve you think is leaking.

But the lash is controlled by the HVLA....

To a degree. Still need the shims right though.

With the grooved shim always being the same thickness, the other shim only keeps the valve heights equal to each other.
BTDT

But you can get a grooved shim that's thinner, especially when doing performance mods up top

No where in JWT's instructions does it mention reshimming to make the S-series cams work. http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/CAMINSTALLINSTFORSR20.PDF

As a matter a fact, out of all the cam install write ups I've seen on this site and the old site, nowhere does it mention having to reshim. As Tim mentioned, that not the purpose of the shim.

So here's what I found out tonight. I removed the S3 exhaust cam and put back in the old stock exhaust cam. Guess what? 155 in cyl 1, 160 in cyl 2, 155 in cyl 3, and drum roll.....145 in cyl 4. It's a hair low but that could be just the cheapo compression tester I was using. So 145 is better than zero.

One of the things I noticed was the dizzy was much harder to get out of the hole with the S3's in there. I used the same torque settings for both installs. I'm wondering if the bearing grind on the right side is slightly off (a little smaller) causing the lobe to push into the rocker when it's torqued down? I dunno. I think the next move is to give JWT a call see what they say.

Measure the base circle of the lobes?

Nothing in my tool arsenal to do it with accurately. Cool, another excuse to buy stuff....lol

I assume one would measure a cam lobe with a micrometer? :o

Yes, would be nice to compare lobe measurements.