Thread: My Ecu Relay Is Buzzing Like Crazy HELP !

Definitely gonna check that today i got most of the cluster/under plastics Out i did check coil and ignitor but they seem ok so the coil or ignitor need to be ground?

I'm not talking about the ignition coil... but the control coil inside the relay.


How do relays work? - Explain that Stuff!

Gotcha anyways ashtonser was referring to them as well so i thought you meant coil, i will follow those green relay wires and test the volts, everything was working perfectly until (toy story scary sound when the ugly dolls appear when buzz gets lost) "until girlfriend drove it"

Could this be related to why also my rpm is not working as well , i replaced cluster and nothing the same crap buzzzing sound on green coil and no rpm signal, car does start and drives but got 1.73 give or take on the blue rpm signal from ecu but nothing on dash and nothing on msd vvl switch

Did you do any work before this buzzing happened? Could something have gotten broke or connected incorrectly? If it happened on its own, then there may be a wiring fault or some bad component that needs troubleshooting, but we need the back story to help out. Did Girlfriend rip out any wires or anything while in the car?

The RPM signal and anything else going to the gauge cluster is going to come from the ECU, and if the relay is buzzing then the ECU isn't going to be working correctly. It will be getting intermittent power (off/on/off/on in time with the relay), the internal capacitors are going to buffer this somewhat, but it won't see full power, so all the voltages it provides are likely to be low.

She said it hapoen after i did oil change but again i only did oil change i didn't touch anything else , i did went for a spin and full throttle the car maybe some movement could be the culprit ill be checking all soon ill get an update

Uuhhh now i remember what i did (crappy memory ) i also changed my battery the + side was sitting on the driver fender and the - was facing the passenger fender but my post were almost touching my hood so i turn around the battery so now the post sit by the air intake and not by the headlight but the +,- cables i had to remove one 10mm bolt in order for the negative cable to reach the driver side so the negative cable is no longer touching or making ground its only touching the tranny-straight the the battery, im gonna try to put that 10mm bolt on the chassis againg to see if that makes a difference

- - - Updated - - -

Crossing fingers and making a quick prayer. . .

Secured negative battery cable to tranny,and chassis to battery, i can say buzzed when away also there's a little white box under dash that the circuits were smashed due to viper alarm box couldn't sandwich them together and broke white box circuit board in half, that one got replaced as well but rpm signal still can't figure out

Ok so thank God i had a spare avenir ecu so i took out oem ecu and started the car and boom got rpm signal back! In the mean time i checked my oem ecu and it kinda smell like burned circuits so i open it up but everything seems ok nothing burn or deslodered but i guess ecu was the culprit of rpm signal , prob from low negative signal from the battery or the smashed circuits from the white box under the dash but im putting everythingback together as we speak , does anybody knows if i will have issues running avenir ecu on stock ve ? Just temporary

OK, I have to assume that when you said the negative wire was 'touching' the tranny that you actually had a bolt or something holding this in place, and it wasn't just there loose?

There should have been a heavy ground wire from near the thermostat housing over to the chassis, and then to the battery negative. At least, that's what I've seen on most B13/14 model. If that lead is missing, you may have some ground issues.

If the battery negative only ran to the tranny and there wasn't a good lead back to the chassis, then the only ground the ECU would have seen were a few wires normally on the back of the intake manifold, 4 small wires on my B13. This may have burned out some components in the ECU as a result, since more current would have had to flow through those circuits to power the ECU, which could explain your burnt smell.


I have no idea what that smashed white box is, but this sounds like something you would want to remove or replace. Smashed circuits could be shorting out something else, and causing issues.