Thread: 96 SE-R - Lack of power and likes to rev on it's own to 4k...

I posted this in chassis specific originally but it seems dead in there so I'm hoping for a better response here. Mods, feel free to delete the thread in 200SX SE-R, this is probably better suited for this subforum anyways.

So my free 96 SE-R is running again. I had to pull the starter off the free B13 and I had a new ebay fuel pump for the B13 that I also used (which does NOT fit in the b14 fuel pump housing). Siphoned out the old gas, added fresh gas and stabil. It wouldn't start saturday after doing that work but started fine on sunday, go figure.

Anyways, it feels *REALLY* slow. I don't mean normal SE-R slow, I mean worse than a Geo Metro slow. It also likes to rev on it's own up to 3,500-4,000RPM. If you pull the throttle cable it will often just sit there after releasing the throttle. It doesn't rev all that freely either, seems to struggle to rev up.

Here's a video with it running and hanging, especially at the end: 1996 200SX SE-R issues - YouTube

Now the cam timing could be off, but research by a buddy of mine with an SE-R led to potential MAF and/or vacuum line issues. The car has sat for years, so vacuum lines are quite possibly dry rotted away and the maf is quite possibly dirty/broken. I'm going to try the MAF off his 97 and see if that helps and start tracking down vacuum lines but I figured I'd post here and see if anyone had any other ideas.

Oh and no CEL, but I learned later that the previous owner pulled the CEL bulb due to some issue with early Fidanza flywheels or something causing the light to come on. I don't think the 96 would have the bulb on the ECU as well to check codes so I may have to reinstall the bulb to check.

Any other ideas?

Thanks!

Well I'm pretty sure the 96 ser uses obd2 so even if there is no bulb on the check engine light in the dash you should still be able to hook up an obd2 scan tool and check for codes without having to go threw the trouble of reinstalling the bulb on the dash.

I don't have a scan tool unfortunately and the car isn't registered/insured to drive it to autozone

I figured that on the ECU light as well but haven't checked, you still have to access the ECU and turn the screw on the OBD2 cars correct? It's been awhile since I worked on these things.

Hmmm I'm not 100% sure but don't think the screw and little ecu light are on obd2 ecu's but maybe someone else can chime in on this subject. My car had a major lag for the longest time and it turned out being the timing was off and I had a vacuum leak.

Obd2 still has the light on the ecu but I have had several where it doesn't work. Easiest way to check the codes from home is to put the bulb back in and turn the screw.

I doubt it's your maf. The maf generally doesn't allow the car to go past 2500 if its not hooked up. You need to verify the timing and properly set the idle. Often times a vacuum leak will cause the car to die not rev higher.

Make sure the throttle cable isn't binding and that the tps voltages are within spec as well. Lots of small things you need to eliminate here.

Agreed on the vacuum lines. I've had engines rev up when spraying starter fluid on lines to find a leaking one, but otherwise die/run rough, not rev high. Throttle cable is fine, that's the first thing I checked. MAF.. ugh I hate MAFs and have been fortunate enough to avoid cars with them for the most part..

Timing is still a big suspect IMO. We threw some cams in years after the originals were removed, no idea if it's timed right, or one tooth off either direction, etc.

Hopefully I'll work on it again this weekend (car isn't even at my house but still at the previous owners).

I might go reinstall the CEL bulb one night this week though.