Thread: B13 brake upgrade aficionados

No ok, that does make sense. I thought you were referring to a longer throw on the MC for a smaller diameter MC piston which is why I confused myself because as my work shows that is not the case.

What you have said now I see what you meant by it before haha. Actually now I am sort of interested, maybe in a day or two if I get some more time I will complete those calculations and bring it down to the caliper side to see if I can get an actual relationship for how the caliper force varies with MC diameter and so on.

Of course it's much oversimplified, but it's useful for speculation on the topic as in "What will happen if I do this?".

Glad you got what i was trying to explain. Yea the fact is the good part about it is if you are looking to actually figure out the forces involved, to create a rough sketch would only need to include the piston diameter, and throw, as well as the caliper size and volume....i think that would about cover it. Man I wish I had my books, they have great illustrations that would make this %100 concrete...

Keep on it Danja.

Dudeman

And how fast you apply the brakes

I'm not looking to apply it to actual numbers, mainly because the MC is not a simple setup as in my diagram there and it would be a lot more work to do all the needed math. But it will be really pretty simple to use the line pressure to get a theoretical brake pressure that is related to the simple version of a MC for speculation. I'm sure your books are a lot more in depth, but the basic relationship is all I was getting at here. Although it would be sort of cool to try and get to actual numbers involved! So much more complex though.

There is a good article in the current GR Motorsports Magazine that covers all of this.

Haven't had the time to get in here much lately. Here we go again. The B13 SER is underbraked; we all know that. The typical solution is the AD22's on the front. Some folks also put larger rotors on the rear for more swept area. If you're racing, that makes sense IF AND ONLY IF you know what the hell you're doing in calculating and adjusting F/R brake bias. Get too much brake in the back and you get real interesting experiences when the backs lock first. If you put on AD22's and leave the stock rears then you have EXACTLY what the imported NX2K's have for rotors and calipers, EXCEPT you have screwed up your bias with WAY too much bias toward the front. The easiest solution, again if you're not track racing, is to get a NEW NX2K mc, because that's the only way you can get the correct bias valves (the funny little long nut looking things that screw into the mc between the mc and the lines) for the NX2K setup. Works wonders. Only other solution I know of (other than dumb luck or maybe the level of expertise demonstrated by Danja above) is to put an adjustable bias valve in line. NOBODY has demonstrated to me on either forum that they actually know what the hell they're doing when they play with Altima mc's and/or the various oversize rotors on the rear. Bolting stuff on your car is one thing, being able to figure brake dynamics is another thing entirely.

Oh yeah, what's the part # then?

I've been directed at GregV or Mossy for the rotors.

I've been told that the 93/94 Maxima rears are the same caliper that the euro NXs use, so I'm on the hunt for them. They are larger thatn the USDM NXs though, so using an NX MC makes no sense. It would bring me back to the issue that I have now with the AD22s in the front and a stock MC...

Go to Greg. He'll get the parts at the best price he can do, and it'll most likely be equal to or less than the big gun's prices. AND he'll be honest. Period. BUT, if you have at least a 4th grade education and intelligence, read what I said above about brake bias. Figure out what the hell you're doing before you do it. A 4-year-old can bolt on parts. It takes some minimal level of adult intelligence and some engineering knowhow to figure out balance. Are you racing? Then get with some experts. If you're just streeting and ax, no matter how crazy you are, you DO NOT need big rear rotors. If you really WANT big rear rotors, go find some people who are as far as I can tell NOT on this forum who know what they're doing and can help you figure out the balance dynamics. That's assuming you like your car and your neck, and have no interest in navigating backwards into large immovable objects. If not, go screw with your car, and I apologize for inconveniencing you and giving a rat's ass about your health.

Brembo N1000-32402

Jerry and Ninja, you can use the NX MC with the NX front brake setup and the Euro NX/Maxima/G20 rear brake setup.

This is the way Euro NXs come from the factory, so no worries.

Well, thanks for that... I will be racing, in fact. I will be Auto-Xing this summer (god willing) and I have a novice school coming up in late June. I have a great suspension set-up and stong stock engine... But just through the fun roads, I have noticed a braking deficency. I doubt that my stock MC is doing its job well, as I have NX front brakes. I am also needing to bleed my lines becuase of my pedal reaction. (No leak found, dont think they were bled well enough when the NXs went on the front)

I appreciate your concern for my health, but am not seeing the parallel between a brake upgrade that is stock in other parts of the world... I don't see this as an outrageous upgrade.



Are those P10s or P11s? Some clarification would be nice.