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Thread: B14 SR20 not starting

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Posts: 41-50 of 58
2008-05-01 03:55:26
#41
Originally Posted by 91serturbo
woh what do you mean was running on 3 cyl. did i miss sumthing?

are you saying you had a dead hole prior to doing the timing chain?


Lol.. yea he also said he didn't do the chain already haha
2008-05-01 03:58:13
#42
Originally Posted by 91serturbo
if engine is flooded the spark plug cannot ignte the fuel and the more you try to start the engine eventually you will wash all the oil out of the cylinder and off of the rings with no lube on the rings during cranking the rings will loose there seal.

the oil will restore the seal some what. possable enuph for the engine to start and let the rings reseat much like when the engine was new and the rings needed to be worn in


That makes some sense, but the compression ring doesn't normally seal with oil, that's why I'm confused about it. Just beginning to increase the air pressure in the piston should be sealing the compression ring shouldn't it? Self sealing I mean.
2008-05-01 03:59:32
#43
in the next step were i asked for lots of oil in the cylinder i am hopping to temporarlly seal a large leak like a bent valve or blown head gasket or cracked valve seat.


watching the vid i sounds like the engine almost stops turning but keeps spinnin like its hydro locked or a piston hitting sumthn
2008-05-01 04:01:08
#44
Originally Posted by Danja
Since 140 is the normal spec compression for the engine, than I don't see how this could be caused by timing either, since if it were off, then you should not get the normal compression in the other two. Maybe I'm wrong about this but if the pistons are synced (and they will be) than if cam timing was off they would all be bad, not just 2.


I'm pretty sure that 140 is below the minimum. I believe the fsm say it should be within 149-178
2008-05-01 04:03:30
#45
Originally Posted by Danja
That makes some sense, but the compression ring doesn't normally seal with oil, that's why I'm confused about it. Just beginning to increase the air pressure in the piston should be sealing the compression ring shouldn't it? Self sealing I mean.


im sayn the fuel washes away the oil resulting in a conditon were the rings no longer seal like they are extremlly worn and are wiggiling up and down in the ring lands allowing the air and feul to pass by the rings

like blow by multiplied by 100
2008-05-01 04:04:56
#46
Originally Posted by Danja
I'm sure someone here knows if the OEM valves fully open will clear TDC piston or not but I don't lol. Some engines they do.

Stuck valves seem about as unlikely to me, but how do they get stuck anyway? There's an awful lot of force on them by the spring? Just wondering on this.

Do you know which one was not working before you ripped it apart?


The valves will hit the piston if they are fully open and the piston is at TDC.
2008-05-01 04:06:09
#47
Originally Posted by jer_760
I'm pretty sure that 140 is below the minimum. I believe the fsm say it should be within 149-178


i agree i usally get 180 + on a healthy engine im hopping the engine is flodded causing comp to be down on all cyl.

it sounds like he has a base engine prob prior to repairs thats being agrivated by a dizy or injection prob
2008-05-01 04:33:01
#48
Ah you are right, my mistake. Just checked FSM and it says:

Max: 185
Min: 156

Max difference between Cylinders: 14
2008-05-01 04:34:38
#49
Also, that's good info to know, I've never heard of that oil thing on the rings before. Thanks for the explanation on that.
2008-05-01 04:38:28
#50
Guess I should have bothered to check the FSM first haha :o

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