My VE distributor had a cracked cap and rotor, that means overnight parts from Japan... which takes 5-6weeks
. I decided to try to morph it with Roller Rocker parts, which are fairly similar.
RR Rotor and head are triangular
While VE one is round and has an allen screw securing it.
RR vs VE. Looks like the cut/angle is the same on both.
RR one is a tad bit short
The cap itself looked identical to the RR one though so we should be goo don that count.
Installed the RR rotor on the VE distro.
Confirmed the rotor head location was close enough. (VE rotor head on VE Distro)
RR rotor head on VE Distro
The VE dust cover doesn't fit though.
RR dust cover fit perfectly.
Now the fun part the wiring. VE has all 8 prongs on the same plug.
(Wiring reference)
On the bright side, my plug was in dying need of replacement. Don't try to remove sensor plugs in the winter, they crack easily.
Crimped away
VE------------------------------------P11 (00+)
pin1 (B) --------- pin1 (B) ------- CMPS ground
pin2 (W/R) ------ pin2 (W) ------- CMPS +12v
pin3 (B/W) ------ pin3 (B/W) ----- CMPS position
pin4 (L) --------- pin4 (L) ------- CMPS reference
pin5 (G) --------- pin7 (G) ------- Ignition check (coil -)
pin6 (Lrg W/R) --- pin8 (G/W) ---- Coil +12v
pin7 (B/W) ------- pin5 (Lrg B) --- Ground
pin8 (Brwn/W) ---- pin6 (W/B) ---- Ignition signal
Finally heatshrinked
All done
Installed brand new BKR7E plugs, left with stock gap 0.039". Car started right up, very rich though: idling at 10.5-11afr. Went for a ride, was the same AFR's and went into boost with same AFR's. This could because my tune tune is for side gaped plugs or could be the rotor head not reaching the cap as well thus not producing as good of a spark, or could be because I used old rotor and head.
Either way car is running, and it seems like the spark didn't break up at .039" gap even at 8psi, so that's a good sign too
.
Thanks everyone for the help!