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Thread: VE No Start Issue

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Posts: 41-50 of 53
2012-06-17 00:06:49
#41
So... the SR needs 2 things to run... MAF, and distributor. Glad you got it figured out. These cars are so simple.
2012-06-17 08:35:52
#42
I've said this to many people lol
2012-06-18 04:26:08
#43
Originally Posted by Coheed
So... the SR needs 2 things to run... MAF, and distributor. Glad you got it figured out. These cars are so simple.


Actually it's Distributor and bucket full of fuel that just drips into the manifold, we can run without a MAF, just can't rev above a certain RPM.
2012-06-18 04:34:47
#44
Originally Posted by Vadim
bucket full of fuel that just drips into the manifold,


lol. That's called a carburetor silly.
2012-06-18 04:39:14
#45
HA!

i've been workin on sr's so long, an not my datsun, that when i had my step dad rebuild my carb, when i hooked it up i put the fuel line on the wrong port, gas was spewing out the top, called my step dad bitching... looked at an old pic an realized i had the shit backwards... swapped it around an it ran great! oh the simple shit..
2012-06-18 06:05:40
#46
My VE distributor had a cracked cap and rotor, that means overnight parts from Japan... which takes 5-6weeks . I decided to try to morph it with Roller Rocker parts, which are fairly similar.

RR Rotor and head are triangular



While VE one is round and has an allen screw securing it.


RR vs VE. Looks like the cut/angle is the same on both.


RR one is a tad bit short


The cap itself looked identical to the RR one though so we should be goo don that count.

Installed the RR rotor on the VE distro.


Confirmed the rotor head location was close enough. (VE rotor head on VE Distro)


RR rotor head on VE Distro


The VE dust cover doesn't fit though.


RR dust cover fit perfectly.


Now the fun part the wiring. VE has all 8 prongs on the same plug.

(Wiring reference)


On the bright side, my plug was in dying need of replacement. Don't try to remove sensor plugs in the winter, they crack easily.




Crimped away
VE------------------------------------P11 (00+)
pin1 (B) --------- pin1 (B) ------- CMPS ground
pin2 (W/R) ------ pin2 (W) ------- CMPS +12v
pin3 (B/W) ------ pin3 (B/W) ----- CMPS position
pin4 (L) --------- pin4 (L) ------- CMPS reference
pin5 (G) --------- pin7 (G) ------- Ignition check (coil -)
pin6 (Lrg W/R) --- pin8 (G/W) ---- Coil +12v
pin7 (B/W) ------- pin5 (Lrg B) --- Ground
pin8 (Brwn/W) ---- pin6 (W/B) ---- Ignition signal




Finally heatshrinked


All done


Installed brand new BKR7E plugs, left with stock gap 0.039". Car started right up, very rich though: idling at 10.5-11afr. Went for a ride, was the same AFR's and went into boost with same AFR's. This could because my tune tune is for side gaped plugs or could be the rotor head not reaching the cap as well thus not producing as good of a spark, or could be because I used old rotor and head.

Either way car is running, and it seems like the spark didn't break up at .039" gap even at 8psi, so that's a good sign too .

Thanks everyone for the help!
Last edited by Vadim on 2012-06-18 at 06-15-37.
2012-06-18 06:11:42
#47
gotta love making your own shit.. good stuff vadi boy keep it up!
2012-06-18 06:16:39
#48
nice!
2012-06-18 06:16:46
#49
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
gotta love making your own shit.. good stuff vadi boy keep it up!


If this works fine, that means VE guys can run VE distros, have two ears to mount it, and still be able to use readily accessible USDM Rotor Heads and Caps, plus no funky timing issues like you had.
2012-06-18 06:20:36
#50
yea that was pretty whacky eh, but hey it worked an we got it timed up for dan.. frankendizzys ftw!

bet you'll make some more power now.. that cap an rotor had to be killin it
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