VE No Start Issue
Resolved - Distributor must have arched during the compression test and didn't provide strong enough spark.
Day 1
I did a compression test, pulled the spark plugs out left the wires hooked to the distributor and left the fuel pump fuse in though. I've done this in the past plenty and had no issues though. Well after doing 10 cranks per cylinder, put it all back together and the car wouldn't consistently start.
When it would start it would lean out when I add light throttle and stutter off, when I would add heavier throttle it would sputter but then recover and rev fine.
Tried another Spark plug set, another spark plug wire set, another distributor/rotor head. Tried another Z32 MAF too.
Gave up for the night.
Day 2
Started digging into the rabbit hole more...
Tried a different ECU, my old Calum RT, uploaded a similar tune to it (can't upload Nemu TCD's to regular ecu's). Started checking various connections.
Checked signals through NismoTronic.
- MAF v at cranking 1.00-1.30v
- TPS v .40, press on throttle goes to around 3.50v (OBD1 goes higher once you start the car)
- Injector Duty Cycle is at 1-4 cranking
Played more with spark plugs and wires some more. Tried using starting fluid, but I think the cylinders were too flooded thus it did nothing.
Day 3
Started checking cam timing, removed the VC and counted 20 link pins. Cranked with VC off, oil went all over the place as it should.
Started checking to make sure it's not bad gas. Took the spark plugs and wires out, took one wire and connected one spark plug then put it by it's proper cylinder on the valve cover, cranked and saw flames from the spark lighting the fuel.
Took the fuel rail off, checked the injector pulsewidths, when cranking all 4 injectors fire like they should. Seemed a little much fuel though, so played with injector pulsewidths in the tune to no avail.
Removed the distributor, and spun it by hand, spark and fuel timing was on par. Checked every single fuse in the car, removed every single fuse and cleaned the oxidation from the fuses.
By end of the night I had my wife, who has been patiently cranking for 3 days already, crank the motor one crank at a time, about on the 5th crank I started seeing fuel just flooding cylinders. Looks like it's the injectors that are over spraying. My second battery just about died by that point so we called the quits.
Day 4
I already dried out the cylinders, will adjust the pulsewidths again and try cranking it some more.
I will again try some starting fluid but will spray into the injector holes on the manifold, will make sure the cylinders are dry before I do that.
Checked/replaced the following
Day 1
I did a compression test, pulled the spark plugs out left the wires hooked to the distributor and left the fuel pump fuse in though. I've done this in the past plenty and had no issues though. Well after doing 10 cranks per cylinder, put it all back together and the car wouldn't consistently start.
When it would start it would lean out when I add light throttle and stutter off, when I would add heavier throttle it would sputter but then recover and rev fine.
Tried another Spark plug set, another spark plug wire set, another distributor/rotor head. Tried another Z32 MAF too.
Gave up for the night.
Day 2
Started digging into the rabbit hole more...
Tried a different ECU, my old Calum RT, uploaded a similar tune to it (can't upload Nemu TCD's to regular ecu's). Started checking various connections.
Checked signals through NismoTronic.
- MAF v at cranking 1.00-1.30v
- TPS v .40, press on throttle goes to around 3.50v (OBD1 goes higher once you start the car)
- Injector Duty Cycle is at 1-4 cranking
Played more with spark plugs and wires some more. Tried using starting fluid, but I think the cylinders were too flooded thus it did nothing.
Day 3
Started checking cam timing, removed the VC and counted 20 link pins. Cranked with VC off, oil went all over the place as it should.
Started checking to make sure it's not bad gas. Took the spark plugs and wires out, took one wire and connected one spark plug then put it by it's proper cylinder on the valve cover, cranked and saw flames from the spark lighting the fuel.
Took the fuel rail off, checked the injector pulsewidths, when cranking all 4 injectors fire like they should. Seemed a little much fuel though, so played with injector pulsewidths in the tune to no avail.
Removed the distributor, and spun it by hand, spark and fuel timing was on par. Checked every single fuse in the car, removed every single fuse and cleaned the oxidation from the fuses.
By end of the night I had my wife, who has been patiently cranking for 3 days already, crank the motor one crank at a time, about on the 5th crank I started seeing fuel just flooding cylinders. Looks like it's the injectors that are over spraying. My second battery just about died by that point so we called the quits.
Day 4
I already dried out the cylinders, will adjust the pulsewidths again and try cranking it some more.
I will again try some starting fluid but will spray into the injector holes on the manifold, will make sure the cylinders are dry before I do that.
Checked/replaced the following
- Spark Plugs
- Spark Plug Wires
- Distributor Cap
- Distributor rotor head
- MAF
- Connected MAF directly to cold side instead of turbo
- Checked Cam timing, saw 20 link pins between marks
- Checked spark and fuel timing by spinning the distributor by hand, saw spark in 1-3-4-2 order, same goes for fuel injection
- TPS voltages are fine and do change
- Fuel pressure at around 40psi after the fuel pump primes
- Fuel injector O-rings are not leaking even after fuel rail is primed
- Checked and cleaned connections on every single fuse in the car
Last edited by Vadim
on 2012-06-18
at 06-09-14.