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Thread: VE No Start Issue

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Posts: 1-10 of 53
2012-06-13 15:15:41
#1
VE No Start Issue
Resolved - Distributor must have arched during the compression test and didn't provide strong enough spark.

Day 1
I did a compression test, pulled the spark plugs out left the wires hooked to the distributor and left the fuel pump fuse in though. I've done this in the past plenty and had no issues though. Well after doing 10 cranks per cylinder, put it all back together and the car wouldn't consistently start.

When it would start it would lean out when I add light throttle and stutter off, when I would add heavier throttle it would sputter but then recover and rev fine.

Tried another Spark plug set, another spark plug wire set, another distributor/rotor head. Tried another Z32 MAF too.

Gave up for the night.

Day 2
Started digging into the rabbit hole more...

Tried a different ECU, my old Calum RT, uploaded a similar tune to it (can't upload Nemu TCD's to regular ecu's). Started checking various connections.

Checked signals through NismoTronic.
- MAF v at cranking 1.00-1.30v
- TPS v .40, press on throttle goes to around 3.50v (OBD1 goes higher once you start the car)
- Injector Duty Cycle is at 1-4 cranking

Played more with spark plugs and wires some more. Tried using starting fluid, but I think the cylinders were too flooded thus it did nothing.

Day 3
Started checking cam timing, removed the VC and counted 20 link pins. Cranked with VC off, oil went all over the place as it should.

Started checking to make sure it's not bad gas. Took the spark plugs and wires out, took one wire and connected one spark plug then put it by it's proper cylinder on the valve cover, cranked and saw flames from the spark lighting the fuel.

Took the fuel rail off, checked the injector pulsewidths, when cranking all 4 injectors fire like they should. Seemed a little much fuel though, so played with injector pulsewidths in the tune to no avail.

Removed the distributor, and spun it by hand, spark and fuel timing was on par. Checked every single fuse in the car, removed every single fuse and cleaned the oxidation from the fuses.

By end of the night I had my wife, who has been patiently cranking for 3 days already, crank the motor one crank at a time, about on the 5th crank I started seeing fuel just flooding cylinders. Looks like it's the injectors that are over spraying. My second battery just about died by that point so we called the quits.

Day 4
I already dried out the cylinders, will adjust the pulsewidths again and try cranking it some more.

I will again try some starting fluid but will spray into the injector holes on the manifold, will make sure the cylinders are dry before I do that.

Checked/replaced the following
  • Spark Plugs
  • Spark Plug Wires
  • Distributor Cap
  • Distributor rotor head
  • MAF
  • Connected MAF directly to cold side instead of turbo
  • Checked Cam timing, saw 20 link pins between marks
  • Checked spark and fuel timing by spinning the distributor by hand, saw spark in 1-3-4-2 order, same goes for fuel injection
  • TPS voltages are fine and do change
  • Fuel pressure at around 40psi after the fuel pump primes
  • Fuel injector O-rings are not leaking even after fuel rail is primed
  • Checked and cleaned connections on every single fuse in the car
Last edited by Vadim on 2012-06-18 at 06-09-14.
2012-06-14 05:28:01
#2
did you get the car running right?
2012-06-14 09:34:31
#3
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
did you get the car running right?


Nope, spent couple hours cranking trying to start it. Tried just about everything still no start. I'm starting to think it's bad gas, but why would it just spoil when it got to 1/2 tank. I tried to light the spark plug with a torch that was drenched in fuel (after a few cranks), and it would even catch on fire.
2012-06-14 09:38:23
#4
your getting spark right?

if you think its bad gas unplug the injectors and spray a tad bit of starting fluid in, if it starts shut it off an you can assume its bad gas, but idk.. how long did it sit?
2012-06-14 09:46:09
#5
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
your getting spark right?

if you think its bad gas unplug the injectors and spray a tad bit of starting fluid in, if it starts shut it off an you can assume its bad gas, but idk.. how long did it sit?


Sat for a month, once I got the steering rack fixed she fired right up and drove stellar until half a tank, then I bent the xmember out so the downpipe wouldn't sit on it, removed spark plugs, did a compression test, and no start.

I just bought some starting fluid, I tried to spray it into the cylinders but they were semi flooded. I will test starting fluid only tomorrow.

I am getting sparking when I pull the plug out and ground it against the valve cover and crank the car.
2012-06-14 13:23:54
#6
starting fluid? smh
2012-06-15 03:55:58
#7
No start issue continuation:
After a ton more testing, checking and cleaning every single fuse, she still doesn't start. I'm definitely getting a spark, and that spark does definitely light the fuel if I put the sparkplug on the valve cover and crank it.

Removed VC, made sure there were 20 links between the sprocket marks. Timing seems to be on par with fuel so that's not the problem. Pulled the fuel rail and made sure the O-rings weren't leaking... they were like new.

I had my wife do a few cranks then I watched the cylinders with a flashlight, on 5th or so crank the cylinders started filling with fuel. Pulled the fuel rail off again, had my wife start the car while I looked at the pulsewidths, they seemed way too rich. I've already tried to reduce the cranking pulsewidths in the tune, but I take it the cylinders were drowned in fuel and it didn't make a difference.

Tomorrow I will try again with updated pulsewidths, I just need to recharge the second battery by now.
2012-06-15 04:00:50
#8
try moving the distributor around manually.. i had a bad dist in the g20 when i got it an the only way it'd run was fully advanced, swapped another in an timmed it to 15* no problem.
2012-06-15 04:21:59
#9
Originally Posted by Viprdude
starting fluid? smh


It is the easiest way to test for a bad fuel pump. Spray it in the intake tube and see if it starts. If it does and then dies, you have an issue with the fuel delivery. Starting fluid is only bad with diesel engines that have glow plugs and intake heaters.
2012-06-15 13:07:26
#10
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
try moving the distributor around manually.. i had a bad dist in the g20 when i got it an the only way it'd run was fully advanced, swapped another in an timmed it to 15* no problem.


Already did, spun it by hand, saw spark and fuel. Spark was easy to time, fuel wasn't. Looks like if you spin slowly all injectors fire aka cranking pulses. If you spin the distro quickly they fire in 1-3-4-2 order like they should.

Originally Posted by Big
It is the easiest way to test for a bad fuel pump. Spray it in the intake tube and see if it starts. If it does and then dies, you have an issue with the fuel delivery. Starting fluid is only bad with diesel engines that have glow plugs and intake heaters.


I tried using starting fluid, but I too think the engine was flooded by that point. I have to burn off all of the wet fuel (no the mist :-P), which means cranking and holding a torch next to it and watch the flame show.
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