Thread: VE No Start Issue

Going to lick them over with the brush too, from the ECU stand point I'm seeing all values correctly nothing out of place, so doesn't seem like it's electrical, but could be a gremlin with the injector wiring someplace.



FPR Gauge sits at 40 or so psi after priming, when starting it goes to 60psi and drops down. Doesn't seem like that is the case, I seem to be seeing too much fuel too. Maybe my stock VE FPR is overkilling it with pressure...

There is no fuel in the vacuum lines going to the fuel pressure regulator?

is this a DE or VE?

You have no EGR right?

Just making sure. The SR only needs 2 things to run the engine. The MAF and the distributor. Disconnect the TPS or verify voltage. Disconnect the fuel injector fuse, try starting on pure starting fluid.

VE, COheed.

Vacuum lines are good, no fuel.

VE is the motor

No EGR correct

That's what I thought, but apparently it might also need right fuel ratios

Disconnected the injectors at the harness, then cranked and tried cylinders. Then added starting fluid to the PCV hole and had wife try to start it. The car ran for a split second then stalled YAY!.

I started playing around with the tune, started really reducing the pulsewidths, car started cranking a bit better, but still would not start. Battery is dead again and I'm done for the night. I'm installing 333cc injectors tomorrow and will see if it still fails to run.

If it's not the injectors then it's the spark being way too weak. I did install brand new heat range 5 plugs.

if flooding is causing it not to start, then while its flooded, if you unplug the injectors and crank it at wot it should want to turn over or turn over and die once all the fuel is burned out. try with fresh cheap plugs to ensure the plugs arent flooded.

btw what injectors are you using

Plugs are getting flooded, it's like the injectors are spraying directly on the plugs. I tried cranking it while the fuel pump fuse is pulled, still no start. I started reducing the pulsewidths and amount of fuel after that, but I think by the time it would start it wouldn't have enough fuel from tune it self being too lean.

I have STI 520cc injectors currently, they were re-manufactured when I bought them last year, so practically brand new. I'm putting together a new injector harness for Nissan injectors, will swap injectors and see if that helps

Even if it's flooded badly, when you cranked it with the fuse pulled it should have fired. Have your verified your timing? Checked compression for shits and giggles? Leaky valves possibly? Spark plugs all tight?

It's got nothing to do with your fuel map, if anything it's your cranking pw that is the problem. Try something really low like 1.0ms and see what it does.

Verified the timing via timing chain marks, verified the timing via spinning the distributor by hand and watching spark in order and spray fuel for in the same order. Checked compression after no start, cold engine, after 10 cranks or so got to 210psi that it was at before.

Leaky valves possible, spark plugs are all tight.

To check the coil output, hook up an old spark plug to one of your wires. Gap it very large. You want a 1cm gap. If you cannot do this, you will need to buy a spark tester.

It takes 30K volts to jump a spark 1cm in dry air at normal atmospheric pressure.

If you can jump a spark 1cm, then the coil is good. If you can't, the coil is bad. The factory Nissan coil is a 40K volt coil.

you've got to have a spark problem. If you've got fuel in the cylinders and disconnected the fuel pump and it still didn't fire, you def. have a spark or compression issue...and your compression is fine.