Thread: Iacv/AAC output % ???

I'm in a boosted b13, dunno if it matters turbo vs NA. I monitor using calum realtime in conzult. It gives a % reading for AAC/iacv...what's that % suppose to be, warm motor vs cold? If there's a voltage reading I can pull with a meter, what are those numbers? Thank you

Idle percentage when warm should be as close to hovering around 50% as you can get it. Use the idle screw to make that happen.
When cold it can be anywhere from 50-100%, starting high then coming down.

I take that back. That's how I tune mine. But maybe factory is different? Maybe warm idle percentage hangs around 25%? I don't know... But it all has to do with how your idle screw is set (on a properly working engine).

The way I understand it, the higher the % the more air it allows in. Mine is about 8-15% when fully warm. If I increase this in Consult my idle will go up. But my idle is kinda messed up now, so not sure how accurate my results are.

-G

Yes the higher the percentage, the more air the idle valve is flowing.

Ok. So things maybe are working correctly as far as my % goes. My idle is TWISTED and has been since day one. I've cleaned the iacv twice while also swapping it out. I've also swapped out AND tried rigging the AAC to mimic a warm motor. Nothing helps my idle. Ive tried with the idle screw all the way open and closed. It use to be just a cold motor issue but now it persists warm or cold, also AFRs are magically leaned WAY out at idle and cruise after nothing more than a winter slumber and a new battery, WOT still spot on. My percentage is high when cold and drops to exactly 10% when warmed. I remain baffled for 4 years and am extremely frustrated now even more with the new magical development.

Look what I found in the Manifesto.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-maintenance/38-how-bad-idle-troubleshooting.html

Question, has anyone ever had an iacv apart? If so what's under the idle screw? The idle
Screw is just a plastic threaded plug essentially but I'd think there was a spring assembly of sorts beneath it. When removing my idle screw, that's all that comes out: the grey plastic screw. Is this correct? Anyone versed in realtime? Some adjustments I make as far as idle adjustments in realtime have no affect.

I've had mine all apart. There is nothing under the screw, yours is fine. The screw blocks an air passage way. The lower the screw is, the more of the passageway is blocked. Bringing the screw up obviously lets more air through the passageway. This passageway provides the base air to the engine for idle. All the other electronic idle devices are ways to add air on top of this basic air flow.

So Ben, you think with the info provided I can safely rule out the iacv/AAC as being the source of my idle issue?

That data you're seeing is the signal the ECU is sending to the idle control valve. It doesn't mean the idle control valve is responding to the signal though. =/

All that information tells me is that your ECU is trying to let 10% air through the idle control valve air passageway when your car is warm. Without a base-line to work with, we don't know if that is normal or not. It might be normal, or it might be that your ECU is detecting a high idle so it is trying to let less air in... I don't know.

Either way obviously something is not working, or clogged... I let my car sit for the spring and now my idle is messed up. It was fine when I parked it. I think birds made a nest in my exhaust. =/