Thread: New driver side axle and now...

what kind of axle did you use? does it have the rubber balance weight between the boots?

if not, heres your sign.

Do what morgan sugested in post #9 make sure to jack under the lower control arm to preload it checking side to side up and down on the wheel for signs of play . Most cases you can find play in the wheel bearing other times it wont have play but makes noise driving along . One other way to identify wheel bearing noise is drive along and cut the wheel back and forth if the noise gets louder as your shifting weight on that side then its the wheel bearing . This ofcouse is if the tires are smooth on the corners And also check your tires by runnung your hands along the inside corner if it feel "stepped " or "wavey" then its time for tires . But you have to make sure that axle nut is tight . Have a buddy sit in the car with his foot on the brake and you tourque it with a breaker bar . But a "wom wom" sound is sometimes a stepped tire wich people confuse for wheel bearing noise .

I will check for play in the wheel. And I did do that check turning the wheel back and forth. And yea it did make more noise when I went left. But I know for sure it's not the tires. They are brand new Yokohama S drives. I guess it's time for a wheel bearing lol. Is there a write up on that?

Oh and my new axle does have the rubber in between the boots

Great so you can eliminate the tires . Wheel bearing sounds like the culprit . Take the spindle to a local shop if you dont have a press it makes it easier . They probably wont charge u much .

This is probably a bit old, but I feel compelled to post here out of frustration.

I replaced my driverside wheel bearing which was clearly shot (required new hub).

I torqued both the nuts to 150ftlbs and a smidge over, it was the highest my buddies wrench measured to (I read online on an apparently fake source 160ftlbs).

Fast forward 2 months. The car makes the "whomp whomp" noise so effing loud I bought new tires, debated new axles, I felt like I was in 8th grade again trying to guess the problem.

I read a few threads here tonight stating tighten the F out of it. I tightened them down pretty damn hard...but not as hard as I could with a 6ft bar.

Driving home for 10min the sound is nearly gone. The right bearing still makes a very slight noise when turning (probably toast...) new driver sounds ok so far, but probably also toast.

Just some advice, follow Ben's suggestion, and tighten with the strength of Thor. Or as Andrea's would say "Fu*king Tight"

I might re-torque those fu*kers tomorrow even tighter. (hmm 200lbs*6ft=1200ftlbs...)

Edit: The good side is the new Azeni RT615K's are amazing. And yeah, I know the torque will not be 1200ftlbs...

Regards,

Walker

Yea I finally got it to go away with a new wheel bearing. And I tightened it as tight as I think it can go. My 3 ft cheater bar was supporting me standing on the end of it and I'm 6'1 240lbs. So it's definitely on there...used some high heat loctite too lol

The mininimum 190 ft lbs for the axle nut is pretty tight in itself but for those without a torque wrench the cheater bar and the hand of God will get you in the ballpark. If retightening the bearings still makes a diminished but definitive noise you are on borrowed time.

Well here's how I put that amount of torque on my Z32 when I had to replace some axles. I got a 18" long breaker bar. When to home depot and bought a 6' DIP. I swear to took no more then my hands to torque those things down. Poorman's 6' breaker bar

I could have sworn factory spec is 250 ft/lbs but I really think 300+ is the ballpark for where you want to be. If you're not scared the 1/2"-drive breaker bar is going to snap then you're not tight enough.