Thread: My Story of Frustration

Well then its not the car I am thinking of. I am sure most of your questions can be answered by reading the forum. I made the mistake of buying some ones project car and spent three years fixing misc issues.

happens to the best of us. i just had a convo with big honda dude, who has hid share of dissapointments im sure.

this game is cut throat.

it happens to the best of us. and i mean the best of us. i know this first hand cause i was scammed, and trust me i aint one to be scammed, but i got taken advantage of.

im all the wiser for it, i take it as a expensive life lesson.

you do the same.

your in the right place now, alot of these guys will not stear you wrong. plus you have the added advantage of doing your own research here and asking questions as opposed to relying on one individual.

stratton.

Sorry for the Microscopic Pics its the best I can do from my phone.

Anyways here is what I THINK is giving me the idle issues and I hope a lowport mani could fix.

I just bought a Chevy, best darn car I drove in years!

Good for you, want a cookie?

Hell since we're just sayin random things in this guys thread, I like doughnuts.

What manifold where you running though? From what I'm seeing with personal experience is, if you want to go VE you have to be ready to pay. It's not as simple as just boosting a DE. The cam overlap is a big problem with running T2 turbo's on VE. This is why Nissan made VET cams, high lift low duration, and low overlap (13* vs 48*).

Problem is you pay say $700 for a VE, then another $400-600 for VET cams, and you might as well stayed DE which has low overlap cams stock, and just upgraded something else.



Get yourself the Lowport intake manifold, some say they are good for giving around 15whp NA! Lowport many does use the older style IACV, so once you figure out the wiring (not too bad and I can help you with that), you should have a solid idling car.

As for the T28 vs T25, if the fins are not TOO bad, and the shaft play is not too bad, then keep on using it. T25 will run out of breath at a lot earlier then t28, but then again USDM Roller Rockers redline is 6700.

No tune changes should be needed, but T25 turbo will run hotter, which mean hotter charge air, which means if your inter cooler can't dissipate heat too well then hotter air to engine, which means more detonation, which means less timing, which means less power.




Yup that's the typical RR IACV. Go get a low port mani, it should fit, but watch out cruise control will not be happy with the RR/VE Valve cover.

This should help with the Low port mani install: http://www.sr20-forum.com/769706-post2.html

i put more miles on my Yukon than my Sentra?

Pics of the whole car. OP don't feel bad, at least it looks you will save a B13 which always gets a thumbs up from me.

Vadim; Stock BB manifold, stock BB T25, stock 2liter cams. @7psi the P10 ran 13.4 @102mph with a slipping clutch(I slipped too much out the hole and I glazed it ). Neve ran it @288whp at the track, but it shredded third gear from a third gear roll.

I just saw a chevy, ugliest darn car ive seen in years!


See how stupid it is to add a stupid post to a thread?


Realy sucks its not a ve lol, hey ill take that badge on the valve cover from you. Since the last one i was supposed to get was lost in the mail since you wont need it anymore

Man that's pretty nice, sadly I haven't seen the same. I am knock limited based on heat, but once I move intake it should be slightly better.

Wait wasn't the 288whp on e85?