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Thread: No Oil Pressure after cam install. Help/Advice??

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Posts: 31-37 of 37
2012-04-26 23:04:47
#31
pics of your set up may help tremendously as well, sounds to me like you're pressurizing the crank case also.
2012-04-27 02:33:33
#32
Yeah your going to have to remove the upper pan. It would be an absolute PITA if not impossible to get the pump off and back on properly. You have to remember there is silicone between the bottom of the pump and the pan. You would have leaks and all that crap because it wouldnt be sealed correctly trying to wedge the pump between the head and upper pan. It doesnt take that much time to remove the crossmember and exhaust.
2012-04-27 02:35:53
#33
Good point Ashton. Don't forget to support the engine if you remove the crossmember and another mount.


Fuck car work. =/
2012-04-27 02:47:33
#34
I havent had to worry about removing the exhaust for anything since i first went turbo. Ive always ran my downpipes open. But still doesnt take but an extra 10 minutes to remove the exhaust.

Crossmember is easy and yes support the engine before removing the passenger motor mount after the crossmember has been taken out.
2012-04-28 02:14:42
#35
Originally Posted by wnwright
No

Just wondering if you dropped the chain down while doing the cam swap. It can do things like knock out the chain oiler or get under one of the "chain guides" (assuming not a VE pump) and pull it off which can crack the internal cover of the oil pump.


I've seen this before too.


Originally Posted by ashtonsser
Yeah your going to have to remove the upper pan. It would be an absolute PITA if not impossible to get the pump off and back on properly. You have to remember there is silicone between the bottom of the pump and the pan. You would have leaks and all that crap because it wouldnt be sealed correctly trying to wedge the pump between the head and upper pan. It doesnt take that much time to remove the crossmember and exhaust.


I agree completely. Upper pan needs to come off as the lower part of the pump where the pickup bolts too extends into the upper pan. QRs do the same thing.
2012-04-28 04:39:38
#36
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
And thats why I buy mobil 1 filters.

STP filters are my choice for basic filters. But any vehicle i run synthetic in i run the mobil 1 filter along with the mobil 1 oil.

For just regular crap, stp owns Fram. Ive heard nothing but bad things about fram. No thanks.


Funny you mention this. STP and mobil come out of the same factory. Along with AC delco, K&N, and many others. Champion labs makes those filters. You cannot touch the STP for bang/buck. Its a seriously cheap filter, but has overall great capacity and flow characteristics. I still don't like the rubber drainback valve.
2012-04-28 04:45:30
#37
Exact reason why I run them. Fram i wouldnt trust on a gokart let alone a car. STP has never failed yet and ive seen the test results from them and for a basic filter I wouldnt go with any other.

I use mobil1 filters on both my car and my wifes mdx. I go 5k between oil changes on the mdx using those filters with mobil 1 5w30 which is also when the maintenance light becomes solid.
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