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Thread: No Oil Pressure after cam install. Help/Advice??

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Posts: 11-20 of 37
2012-04-26 14:52:46
#11
Originally Posted by Keo
how old is the oil filter? what brand?

i seen a crap ass pureolator crush on a car @ around 5K miles.


Really Purolator having issues? I just picked one up, switching from STP since Purolator should have more metal.

I've seen FRAM filter elements ontop of cam covers, the guy did 3k oil changes too.
2012-04-26 14:56:33
#12
I also hate Purecraptor's. after 5k i can also crush it with my bare hands.
2012-04-26 15:22:19
#13
Originally Posted by Keo
I also hate Purecraptor's. after 5k i can also crush it with my bare hands.


Do you paint yourself green when you do it?

Hulk mad!!! Hulk smash!
2012-04-26 15:25:02
#14
And thats why I buy mobil 1 filters.

STP filters are my choice for basic filters. But any vehicle i run synthetic in i run the mobil 1 filter along with the mobil 1 oil.

For just regular crap, stp owns Fram. Ive heard nothing but bad things about fram. No thanks.
2012-04-26 15:34:51
#15
Originally Posted by wnwright
Do you paint yourself green when you do it?

Hulk mad!!! Hulk smash!


nope, no paint needed i'm asian.

Pooh bear mad!! pooh bear smash!!
2012-04-26 15:47:06
#16
Originally Posted by liljay781
How much gear oil did u put in


Liljay:
I used 3.7-3.8 qts of gear oil in the GEARBOX!! If it sounds like I used it in the engine, that's a mistake!!

Originally Posted by ashtonsser
Also what type of gauge are you using? Definitely seems like you have a problem though. Being both your gauge and the dummy light were flickering.

I would recheck the way you have all your breather pcv hoses routed to make sure you not pressurizing the crankcase as well. That could probably been what damaged your oil pump.

Its seeming like its definitely an oil pump related problem as it got worse and worse then just stopped working. Also i would recommend if you get as far as replacing the oil pump that you change your oil filter as well and put a good filter on, either oem or mobil1 filter.

I can only give you ideas of what to look for other than that. Your on your own.


Ashton:
1) The gauge type used is a Autometer (yes I know, but these have been spot on!!)
2) All crankcase ventilation hoses were checked and rechecked before I left the garage and checked again the day after (and again the day after that when I lost oil pressure completely)
3) Filter used has been genuine Nissan filters (and I think the older, more robust design if my memory serves me correctly as I got them through Greg V)

Originally Posted by Keo
how old is the oil filter? what brand?

i seen a crap ass pureolator crush on a car @ around 5K miles.


Keo

Filter type used is above (Genuine Nissan). Filter has been on for less than 3k miles for sure (1560 miles if I remember correctly. Its not anywhere close to my daily, so it is driven only on nice days, and twice a week to keep things in check)

Originally Posted by ashtonsser
Drop the oil pan and check the pickup tube. More than likely you have a problem there or with the oil pump. Oil pump can also be replaced with the engine in the car if need be.

While your in there, check the pickup tube for blockage including the oil pan if the oil pan is dented at all and by that i mean the center of the pan especially near where the pickup tube sits is needs to sit lower or at worst even. If its indented at all it needs to be banged out. Check the pickup tube for cracks as well. Ive seen them crack over time on very rare cases. Pull the pickup tube off the pump and check the gasket there as well. If everything with the pans and pickup tube and gasket look fine i would probably just replace the oil pump.



Ashton:
Pan will be dropped this Friday (time permitting) as well as an oil change will be completed. I will be checking the pan for dents. I will also be checking the pickup to make sure there is no blockage or debris buildup.
Benfenner also recommended I do this!

For the oil pump however, is there a writeup floating around here as to how to go about replacing it while on the car??

Originally Posted by wnwright
Drop the chain?

And I never put anything non-engine in my engine.


wnwright:

Care to elaborate??


Thanks all for the recommendations!! Keep em coming if you have more!!
2012-04-26 15:59:40
#17
No writeup but its not all that hard, remove the drive belts, remove crossmember and exhaust, remove both upper and lower oil pans, remove pickup tube, remove pulley, remove passenger side motor mount and bracket, remove all bolts to the front cover and take it off. put new one on and make sure to apply silicone to the top of it where it meets the headgasket if its a paper gasket and not a metal one. If metal dont worry about it.

Then put it all back together. Pretty simple. just a pain to get at some of the bolts. You can drop the engine down some to help get at the bolts.
2012-04-26 16:09:50
#18
you got paper towels in the the oil galley and or the oil pick up. I say your sending unit for the autometer gauge is bad or cloaged. I would also pull the factory sending unit to make sure there in nothing obstructing it. Oil all over the engine bay happens when you pressurize the crank case and it comes out of the dip stick hole.
2012-04-26 16:17:27
#19
Originally Posted by cortrim1
you got paper towels in the the oil galley and or the oil pick up. I say your sending unit for the autometer gauge is bad or cloaged. I would also pull the factory sending unit to make sure there in nothing obstructing it. Oil all over the engine bay happens when you pressurize the crank case and it comes out of the dip stick hole.



The oil came from when the oil cap flew off...........
Thanks for the recommendations!! Once its up in the air, I will make sure to check those as well!!
2012-04-26 17:49:39
#20
I wouldn't replace the pump yet. Pull the lower oil pan, check for obstructions, and do an oil and filter change. Start it up and see what it says.
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