Thread: rod bearing help!!

so i bought an unknown det from a friend....it has been stored for about 2 years and the story my friend got from who it was bought from originaly was that the HG went and it was taken to a shop to have it fixed.....he said it cost him a grand at the shop.....from what i can see the head was rebuilt....new seals and i think seats.....new waterpump and timing gear....however the timing was put together wrong and almost everything is still loose......so getting into the engine go to check the torque on EVERYTHING we notice the rods move side to side just a little bit on all but one.....1-3 are sloppy and 4 is tight side to side.....took #1 off to check it and this is what we see.....




are these bearings toast??
and lynch just informed me the rod caps are on the wrong rods?!?!
more pics and updates on this weirdness later....LOL

side to side movement is fine, up and down is a problem, they look evenly wear, do you know if those are stock? they look replaced

this is boomstickracing not lynch.........no clue on if they are stock or not....theres a funny looking K stamped on the back with some numbers.....the K looks more like a symbol than a letter character

they must be king bearings then, they look like they were replaced not long ago and they dont look like factory

is it this

use them? any good?

Yep, that's it! I kinda thought they might be kings but its only a name I've read online, never seen their logo. But that's them for sure!

Get this, whoever put them in put the #4 rod cap on backwards, so it didn't move side to side at all. I made sure that all the rest were on correctly.

should all the numbers on the tops of the rod caps face the same direction?
I notice that some of them appear upside down to others, but all the numbers on the sides of the rods and caps that indicate which rod it is are all on the same side. 1/1 - 2/2 - 3/3 - 4/4.

I had boomstick ask on here because the movement side to side seemed a bit more then im use to, I've had a few engines apart now and I would say mine has half the side play that his does. There is 0 up an down play though so that's good at least. I loosened all the caps an re-torqued them per fsm instructions, first 12ftlbs then 33ftlbs. I did test them first to see how tight they had been torqued and id say around 25ftlbs or less because the wrench moved quite a bit before it clicked at 33ftlbs

log on your name now fucker.

king bearings are ok, if i were you i would try to make sure that they are standard size and not over sized bearing before making any decisions on changing them. they seem to be in good condition, do you know if they motor ran at all? if so how long? the least precaution you can take is to plastigauge them, but if the motor was running fine i would leave them alone, inspect the crank journal for wear or nicks before re installing, seems like your friends 1000 dollars got put to use for the most part.

edit

just saw the rod cap info, if thats the case i would do further investigation because if the assembler didnt take the precaution to install the rod caps in the right location facing the right way i would be a tad worried, im guessing the motor didnt run, ill be waiting on your insight maybe other forum members will chip in

On the back side of the bearing its maked STD and some numbers, along with the king logo. There is no scuffing or scratches on the rod journals, but on the back of the #1 rod cap bearing there is some bluing, as if it got warm. Its only on one side of it though. I didn't check the rod side or the back of the #4 rod cap bearing though.. one thing i did notice though, is cross hatching on the rod cap, like its been line honed.

The plan right now is to check EVERY bolt with a torque wrench....i`m hoping my $500 was not wasted on this....it did come with a harness....u12 det ecu and a brand new walbro 255 =)