Thread: Can't get enough slack in timing chain after tensioner removed

I hate the timing chain tensioner.

I have a new problem, sort of.

I was able to get the new cams on the sprokets, and they are bolted down.

Then I couldn't get the timing chain tensioner back in without removing the sprokets again, this time completely, because there was still too much tension, and thus all the work I did to get the cams in with the timing chain zip tied was in vain.

edit: nismo94tuner may have been right about the chain being snagged on a tooth

P.S, look under my screen name on my posts, I updated my phrase.

Move the crank pulley, or cams just a smidge to get more slack in the chain. Even then, it's still going to be tight. You'll have just enough exposed thread on the stud to get one nut started without the washer. Use that nut to draw the tensioner in far enough to get the washer and nut on the other stud. Then remove the first nut, add the washer, and then the second nut.

Once the tensioner is in, crank the engine by hand to release the tensioner clip, and extend the tensioner nose. It's safer than cranking the engine, and you get to actually SEE the tensioner pop out. After that, crank the engine for 30 seconds or so just to make sure everything is getting along nicely. Only then do you put the valve cover back on.

C

I have had to do what Chris said on some motors I worked on. Try and thread on just the nut and tighten it enough to get the other washer/nut on. Then remove the first nut you put on and put the washer on before the nut. You're almost done, lol.

Hats off to you my friend, because it's possible that what you said in post #2 was correct, I'm unable to be positive because I ran out of daylight (have to wait til tomorrow) but it's possible that the chain WAS hung up somewhere on a tooth down on the exhaust side, getting that way at some point during the install, and that was the whole problem, leading to not getting enough slack. You wrote it as the first reply, so hats off to you! You may have been right. I ended up just marking the chain and taking it off the sprokets, I had enough of pulling on it and was afraid of doing damage. After you posted that yesterday I went and checked but just couldn't tell.

Thanks I got it in

Good to hear!

Nice job. What was it that made it all come together?

Frankly, it hasnt yet, I ran out of sunlight and am going to check tomorrow

Nismo94ser may have been right about the chain being snagged.

Hey guys, I know in the JWT cam instructions it says it's very important to make sure the new cams don't bind on the first surface (closest to the timing chain) - I just took this photo of my new S3 intake cam installed, and I'm not sure but I was wondering if someone can look at it and tell me if this happened or not:



Sorry for the crappy pic, it just kind of looks like it has a bit more to go down. I torqued the caps evenly and to the right torque settings. I just can't tell if it's all the way "down", it looks like theres a mark from the stock cams on the block, a half moon shape oval thats a tiny bit further down where this reaches. I'll get a better pic tomorrow