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Thread: Can't get enough slack in timing chain after tensioner removed

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Posts: 1-10 of 47
2012-03-25 20:57:32
#1
Can't get enough slack in timing chain after tensioner removed
Hey guys real quick question, doing an S3 cam swap right now in my '91 SE-R, it has the JDM SR20 (although I don't think that matters) I removed the timing chain tensioner and removed the stock cams, but now I'm having trouble getting enough slack to get the new intake cam onto the sproket. I've done several cam swaps in the SR20 but never ran into this before.

I don't want to pull too hard, and yes I zip-tied the sprokets to the chains.

Any suggestions? Or should I just keep at it. THanks!

(trying to get my car ready for the convention)

Update: the problem is I can't get the dowel pin on the intake cam to line up for fittment to the cam gear, the dowel slot seems too far counter-clockwise, but the exhaust cam dowel pin is still at 12 o'clock like before the old cams were removed

Another update: it's possible nismo94tuner was correct (see very next post below)
Last edited by Storm88000 on 2012-03-26 at 22-26-06.
2012-03-25 21:14:34
#2
You didn't drop the chain down by accident did you? Maybe caught on top of a tooth down by the crank? I know when I did a couple cam swaps it seemed tight but once I aligned the teeth on the cam gear with the chain, the cam slipped into its place. Did you try turning the exhaust cam back a little bit to give a little more slack?
2012-03-25 21:18:55
#3
Originally Posted by nismo94tuner
You didn't drop the chain down by accident did you? Maybe caught on top of a tooth down by the crank? I know when I did a couple cam swaps it seemed tight but once I aligned the teeth on the cam gear with the chain, the cam slipped into its place. Did you try turning the exhaust cam back a little bit to give a little more slack?


I'll check that out. As far as I know I didn't. I first tried the "wedge" technique with the little block of wood that JWT recommends and found it didn't really give me enough slack to remove the old cams, so then I just took the tensioner out and then it was easy to take the old ones out.

edit: and yes I removed the block of wood from the engine, ha
2012-03-25 22:04:35
#4
I'd try turning the exhaust cam back just a bit. If it doesn't feel like it could give slack, leave it as is. I hated swapping cams and leaving the cam gears on the chain. I feel like its such a pain, lol. Good luck. Keep up posted.
2012-03-25 23:35:48
#5
So the gears are still on the teeth and because of that, you cannot get the cam on? Just take the chain off and set it to the side.
2012-03-26 00:04:19
#6
Mark the chain and the cam gears on both cams so you know where they go together. Then just take the chain off. Make sure you compress your tensioner before you install it. Then you can put your cam gears back on your cams, align the marks you made on the chain and gear, and torque your cams down.

You could try putting the tensioner in last to see if that makes up for the slack you need in the chain.
Last edited by SR20? on 2012-03-26 at 00-10-08.
2012-03-26 00:06:40
#7
Originally Posted by Viprdude
So the gears are still on the teeth and because of that, you cannot get the cam on? Just take the chain off and set it to the side.


Yep, thats the problem. The exhaust cam goes on easily, but the intake cam, whether or not the exhaust cam is seated at the time will not. It's mainly the dowel pin on the intake cam that can't align with the notch on the cam gear.

I was thinking about just taking off the chain, but my only concern is the cam timing, I know it's 20 marks, but I'm sort of afraid to mess with it. But looks like i'll have to.
2012-03-26 00:10:48
#8
you try and put the intake cam on first?
2012-03-26 00:11:28
#9
Put the intake on first there is more slack on the exhaust side
2012-03-26 00:12:47
#10
Originally Posted by morgans432
you try and put the intake cam on first?


Yep, I tried a buncha combos, first just the intake, then exhaust first then intake, then both at the same time etc.

Argh
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