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Thread: Replaced the clutch and now....

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Posts: 11-20 of 47
2012-03-14 10:46:34
#11
The driver's side axle can be real stubborn coming out and going in. I've gotten to the point where I just pull the tranny with the axle in it. Most shops don't know what they are doing when it comes to dealing with this axle. I recently had to use a shop in a pinch and when I got the car back the end of the axle was all screwed up from beating on it with a hammer.

Good luck getting yours fixed up. If I were you, I'd replace the seal once you get the axle out to make sure your leak is fixed and avoid the possibility of having to pull it a second time to fix the leak. There is no knowing what that seal has been through at the hands of your friend's friend.
2012-03-15 20:31:06
#12


Ok, I was taking it apart, got everything apart except this....now I'm stuck..,any tips guys?
2012-03-15 20:34:56
#13
Originally Posted by 94turbo


Ok, I was taking it apart, got everything apart except this....now I'm stuck..,any tips guys?


did you undo the 2 strut bolts atop the knuckle???and i hope you took that ball joint bolt off and its not just like that...
2012-03-15 20:34:59
#14
you dont need to take that off

pop out the 17mm bolts in the strut that will allow the hub assembly to be free and push it down and pop the axle out

you can actually use the hub as a hammer of sorts to get that little extra push to pop the axle in
2012-03-15 20:36:28
#15
heres a good write up in the beginning will tell you what to do to get the axle out of the hub

http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-maintenance/1225-how-replace-axle-boot.html
2012-03-15 20:46:01
#16
yea, I took off the strut bolts. I cant seem to lift the hub off that bolt...I was pulling so hard i was actually moving the whole control arm. its like the thing is glued on
2012-03-15 20:52:09
#17
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Oh...
Well to get the lower ball joint to separate from the knuckle, first remove the halfshaft, then place the castle nut back on the lower ball joint upside down so the castle part is facing down. Screw the nut on until the top of the nut is flush with the top of the bolt. Whack that thing with a BFH and be done with it.



Remember, removing the outer tie rod end is not required to remove the halfshaft from the knuckle. Loosening the sway bar will help.
2012-03-15 21:03:43
#18
Originally Posted by 94turbo
yea, I took off the strut bolts. I cant seem to lift the hub off that bolt...I was pulling so hard i was actually moving the whole control arm. its like the thing is glued on


cause you dont have to and no shit the contorol is going to move

put the axle nut on a little but so it doesnt fuck up the threads on the axle. wack it with a hammer so the axle is popped out of the hub as much as it can and go from there.

great minds think a like ben
2012-03-15 23:46:15
#19
Originally Posted by morgans432
you dont need to take that off

pop out the 17mm bolts in the strut that will allow the hub assembly to be free and push it down and pop the axle out

you can actually use the hub as a hammer of sorts to get that little extra push to pop the axle in


right on..makes sense to me..
2012-03-16 01:45:44
#20
Dont need to take the ball joint nut or ball joint off, just remove the two strut bolts like above posts said and remove the sway bar link nut and support the control arm/spindle with a floor jack. If you're really set on taking the spindle off then the axle needs to be out of the way first then you put the nut back on the ball joint except loosen it a couple of threads, have an assistant pull up on the on the spindle and tap on the ball joint nut with a hammer, preferibly with a piece of wood between the nut and the hammer so as to not damage the threads/nut.
One more tip, make sure and center the clip on the axle on the end with grease, if its not centered you'll never get it to 'snap in' to the differential and it will fall out again. Also REPLACE THE AXLE SEAL.
Last edited by SENTRASER on 2012-03-16 at 01-49-26.
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