Thread: Huge electrical drain...????

Shawn, I had a similar issue with the SE-L right after I purchased it. I couldn't figure out the issue for the longest time. Replaced batteries...yada yada. Because I didn't like the aftermarket stereo the previous owner had put in, I replaced it with the stock unit. The issue went away. My guess is some of those aftermarket things you had installed may be a place to start.

This thought had crossed my mind, which is why I included that information. Thanks for confirming one of my suspicions as a possibility.

I'm gonna stop by the shop on Monday and discuss my thoughts and ideas from this thread with the shop Owner.

I don't think the Optima battery is the same quality they used to be.

I had a yellow top in my last SE-R for a long time and it was in the car for about 2 years when I got it but when I finally killed it I did some reading and a lot of people get batteries w bad cells and they die quickly.
They changed the process by which they recondition them or something in the last 4 years or so.

I'm obsessed with grounds so I would make sure there's clean connections on the chassis side. I know you have a lot of paint and foam and stuff in there. Make sure the electricity has a clean path.

I left my p11 alone for 3 months and kept the battery plugged in. The immobilized system killed it. After jump starting, taking the jumper cables it would sputter and die after 10 seconds. Apparently the battery died. When to Costco, got a new one for 60 bucks and if I plan not on drivin it for more than a week I take the leads off the battery and no problems since

If the battery even after a charge wont start the car and goes down to 11 volts its got a bad cell. Ive seen it happen on redtops before shawn. My buddy put a brand new redtop in his 240 and less than 6 months later it had a bad cell only getting 10.5-11 volts from it right after a charge.

Your car may still have a drain causing the battery to go bad as did my buddies car. Ended up being his trunk light was staying on because the switch on the latch was messed up. Popped the bulb out and no more drain.

Like Ben said, use a multimeter between the positive terminal and the positive cable disconnected from the battery and see if you have an amperage reading. You should see < .10 amps with the key off. On a good stock electrically sound car I usually see about .03 amp draw car off. Basicly thats just your ecu's backup power and CD player internal clock drawing that small amount. You will notice it if anything is out of the ordinary. My buddies with just his trunk light staying on it was drawing 1.1 amps, Removed the bulb and whalla, down to .03 amps.

But im gonna vote your battery is bad as the main issue but the cause for killing 3 batteries quickly there is most likely a draw somewhere. Unless its just some bad luck. lol

had this problem on my b14, installed a battery interrupt switch on the ignition wire, cured it.

Just an FYI, I would think it is your battery as well. I stick to these:

Amazon.com: Deka Sports Power ETX-20L: Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31-Z8koSQ4L.@@AMEPARAM@@31-Z8koSQ4L

I have driven on it all winter here with no issues. It cranks right up and has held up great. I don't have a stereo system, but I do have a full turbo with w2a IC pump that runs as well as all of the P11 electronics. If you trace current draw and don't find anything, I would bet you have a battery issue and that you need to replace.

Brent