Thread: Putting or sputter?

vacuum leaks aren't the easiest, but if you pick up some carb cleaner and CAREFULLY spray it around where you think it may be leaking and your car rpms spike a touch, there's your answer.

Similarily if you're REALLY seriously considering a vacc leak, you can take the car to a place that has a smoke machine that will pressurize the system and smoke will come out of the place of the leak. If you're cheap like I am, you can also make one out of a pvc pipe blocker tapped with an input threaded into it, a very low psi (like 3-5psi) regulated air stream from a compressor (CAREFULLY), put some air into it, and spray a water/soap mixture all over the place and watch for bubbles.

Just watched the video.
That sound is weird, but have you checked the basics (plugs, wires, dizzy)...that might be a slight missfire, no?

Thats what i was thinking but its been doing it for a few months and about a week ago I just did all new OEM rotor, cap, seal, plugs and wires. No change, like I said though it has been getting worse as time goes on so I'd like to nip it in the bud before it ruins something. I guess I'll start looking for a vacuum leak tomorrow and see what I find.

You could have a vacuum leak in the hoses that are easy to find around the throttle body, but could also have leak at the IACV air regulator. Check idle at the AAC, voltage at the TPS. Has the MAF been reground?

Alright small update pulled the plug wires one at a time and cylinder #1 makes no difference the rest the rpms dipped a bit. But #1 does nothing you can here it sparking when pulled so I assume this means the injector is dead right? I got a new set in rail ready to go now thanks to Tomas527 so I suppose I'll replace today and see if that fixes it.

Alright bumping for some help. Swapped out the fuel rail with new to me injectors and now the car idles at 3000rpm. Any idea why I quadruple checked that I put every thing back as it was.

Alright lol one more time I fixed the 3000 rpm idle the part for the fuel on the FPR was holding up the nut on the throttle body so bend it slightly out of the way. Now I still have the same problem as earlier except now I realize #1 is not getting any spark. What would cause #1 to not get any spark? Like I stated in the first post I have brand new (now less than 500 miles) OEM distributor cap, rotor, seal, as well as new plugs and wires. Is just the #1 wire bad?

plug wire 1 is fine i see it sparking against the valve cover now but it still has no change when i pull the wire? I guess may be injector #1 is dead on the new to me rail as well. I guess I'll try swapping out a known good one from the other rail.

alright quick question if any one happens to browse through.

How do you get an injector out of the rail? I unscrewed the cap but that thing ain't budging.

never mind got it. swapped them out but no change also i saw in the fsm if you unplug the IACV that the rpm will dip a bit but I did and there was no change so it recommended replacing. I guess that should be next on my list?