Thread: Putting or sputter?

new video of what its doing now. also dies sometimes at warm start up

going to try to replace to o-rings for the fuel injectors this weekend what are you using as the lube I dont want to tear them? Thanks

^ Make sure to install new o-rings on the injectors before lubing them.

As far as the video goes, I'm not sure man. It's kind of hard to tell from the sound but it sounds similar to my car when I blew out the exhaust manifold gasket at the head and the collector. My car sounded like absolute crap at idle and under load. Have you checked for blown exhaust gaskets?

Do you have a wideand installed? If you have a ex. gasket leak before the wideband o2 sensor, your AFR's will be reading considerably lean.

BTW, just to clarify, some of what I mentioned in my last post, as far as air filter clean and checking the voltage on some things (TPS, pump, etc.) are more then likely not things that are going to help you with this problem. They are just things you can look at which may help the overall performance of the car.

Maybe some experienced mechanics can chime in on that start-up sound from the video???

I would definitely check the voltages on the MAF and injectors though..

I'm going to try a couple things today. What are you using to lube that stuff? I got my hands on a multimeter today so I post results.

The video was a warm start up. Cold start ups it revs right off the bat to about 2500 rpms and sits there for a min then drops down to about 1000. But in the video the it shows the warm start up sputter and jumping idle then I did the initial rev to get it into its evidently new idle cycle where it stays at 1100 and revs up every 2 or 3 secs to 2000 rpms. Its quite annoying when sitting at stop lights and everyone thinks I want to race them.

Nvm jsut saw the vasoline part of your post

I didn't realize the car was doing the revving up in the video, I thought you were doing that by pressing the accelerator pedal. That is weird though. If it were me I would wonder about the ECU, TPS and distributor. Personally, I would check there first!

Also, I just watched your "check" video, I didn't even see it before, now I understand what Lynch was saying about the cylinder #1 issue. You said you replaced all of the injectors; did you also pull the rail (disable ignition coil/dizzy) and see if all of the injectors were squirting when you crank the engine?

Have you checked to see if the spark plug on that cylinder is even sparking? You would need to pull the plug and wire and then crank the engine to see if the spark plug is even sparking. There is a proper method of doing this in the FSM. See below.

1. Turn Ignition switch “OFF”.
2. Disconnect ignition wire from spark plug.
3. Connect a known good spark plug to the ignition wire.
4. Place end of spark plug against a suitable ground (most people use valve cover) and crank engine.
5. Check for spark.

I would check to make sure that the dizzy is even providing a spark to number 1 cylinder.

If you are not getting spark at #1 cylinder, that might explain the extra richness out of the tailpipe. A messed up dizzy might also explain the sound of misfiring and may (??) also cause the revving up issue. I am only a weekend mechanic but that is where I would check first.

lol.

get a test light and test to see if injector 1 is working, i dont remember the exact procedure but the light bulb should flash, dont remember which wire to check though..

also ya test spark like he said.. c'mon man this shits easy..

as for the weird idle, ya its prob a leak somewhere..

well apparently #1 is working fine now it makes a difference when unplugged. Not sure what fixed it but not complaining. Still however have the sputtering and idle problem.

I did a couple tests from the FSM with a multimeter like:
Throttle sensor = okay on each test
pulled distributor and checked each injector clicked as the shaft was turned
Mass air flow sensor is good.
the only thing that threw me a little bit was testing the crank angle sensor FSM said to measure connections a and d. connection d did just like the FSM said fluctuate between 0v and 5v, how ever I couldn't get a to read anything .

Anything else to check while I have the multimeter?

I also sprayed around carb cleaner to try to find vacuum leaks but nothing was found. (I might need to get under the car to get the AAV and those hoses)

One thing I was going to ask also that does concern me is while the car is running I can unplug this pictured connector and it makes no change to the car running. It looks like to goes to a few sensor like the IACV and a couple others. Its the small two pin connector by injector #1 pictured below. Isn't it suppose to change something when unplugged?

checked the signal going to the connector and it has 4.9 volts is that right or is it suppose to be 12v?

replaced the pcv hosing. It literally fell apart in my hands and was hard as a rock. Didn't make a difference though. I guess next I'll put it up on the ramps and check the hoses under the intake manifold.