Act XT clutch kit issues Disengaging!!
Here is a email thread frim the guy i bought the set from. Its a new disk with a used pressure plate.
Hey wasup man. So i installed the clutch kit. Im having issues disengaging the clutch or going into gear. I tred the pipe trick to no avail. Removed the tranny and the TOB is on the clips properly. The clutch fins are awfly flat after install. Any ideas?Image: http://img.tapatalk.com/a6cd88c5-e2d4-e637.jpg
Image: http://img.tapatalk.com/a6cd88c5-e2fa-07e3.jpg
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Is the clutch disc with the springs facing the pressure plate? The only other thing is the clutch cable not being tight enough. I have miko's tranny bracket so I have a extra 1/2" of adjustment. make sue the the clutch cable is adjusted so the tob is almost against the pressure plate when the clutch is all the way out. this may require you to modify the clutch cable to get extra adjustment.
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Ok so i tried the pipe trick as explained above. I had all the slack taken out before i removed the tranny. Today i removed the clutch and there were circle marks from the fins touching the clutch. The PP may not be good.
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if the pp was bad all of the fingers would not have line up flush and you would be able to see the damage to the springs. With the tranny on the car you should have been able to pull the clutch arm until the tob touches the pp then back it of 2mm. the clutch cable should be able to adjust that far as well.[/QUOTE
Here is a thread i found http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/253294-clutch-disc-springs-touching-pressure-plate-fingers.html
This is the same issue I'm having. The fingers have engraved the clutch disk. And not disengaging the clutch.
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it also states the main reason why this happens is due to a mis adjusted clutch linkage. I will take pics of the modified clutch cable I used to get the extra travel required to get the clutch to work right. Using the bracket andres miko makes eliminates the need to ever modify the clutch cable.
As you can see I shortened the cable
Image: http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c393/cortrim1/2011-12-04214728.jpg
and added washers to increase adjustment
Image: http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c393/cortrim1/2011-12-04214746.jpg
as you can see the fingers on my cm setup and perfectly flat with the pressure plate torqued in the correct sequence
Image: http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c393/cortrim1/2011-08-20175209.jpg
did you get the flywheel surfaced before installing the clutch.
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Thank you for the pics.
1: i have had the flywheel resurfaced and is in spec
2: i have used tge 3/4 reducer mod
And the TOB now fully presses in,
However, the clutch hub is preventing the fingers from moving any further. There is 1/4 of finger space bwtween the clutch when fully bolted.
3: i have adjusted the clutch cable to where the cable has 1 inch of play from touching the TOB.
IM STUMPED! lol
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also make sure the clutch cable bracket on the firewall is not cracked. It will cause the whole setup to flex if its broken.
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Ok. So the both firewall and tranny brackets are sound.
The cable may be the culprit. The short cable may work.
My main question is if i had too much tension on the cable and it was fully pressed, why would it not disengage at all?
Here is a pic for reference. The whole reason i added more tension is because it would not disengage or go into gear.
Image: http://img.tapatalk.com/a6cd8ab8-e31a-d738.jpg
Can you see where the finger were fully pressed? It made a circle mark on the middle by the spindle spline.
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that looks like the back side of the clutch disc( the side that faces the flywheel. The raised center should face the pp. No disengaugement is a clutch cable length issue. I know when I snapped a cable and replaced it I had to modify the new cable to get it to disengauge. I have also had to do this on a clutch masters setup before as well. This is why I now have dre's bracket with a full extra 1" of adjustment.
Hey wasup man. So i installed the clutch kit. Im having issues disengaging the clutch or going into gear. I tred the pipe trick to no avail. Removed the tranny and the TOB is on the clips properly. The clutch fins are awfly flat after install. Any ideas?Image: http://img.tapatalk.com/a6cd88c5-e2d4-e637.jpg
Image: http://img.tapatalk.com/a6cd88c5-e2fa-07e3.jpg
---End Quote---
Is the clutch disc with the springs facing the pressure plate? The only other thing is the clutch cable not being tight enough. I have miko's tranny bracket so I have a extra 1/2" of adjustment. make sue the the clutch cable is adjusted so the tob is almost against the pressure plate when the clutch is all the way out. this may require you to modify the clutch cable to get extra adjustment.
---End Quote---
Ok so i tried the pipe trick as explained above. I had all the slack taken out before i removed the tranny. Today i removed the clutch and there were circle marks from the fins touching the clutch. The PP may not be good.
---End Quote---
if the pp was bad all of the fingers would not have line up flush and you would be able to see the damage to the springs. With the tranny on the car you should have been able to pull the clutch arm until the tob touches the pp then back it of 2mm. the clutch cable should be able to adjust that far as well.[/QUOTE
Here is a thread i found http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/253294-clutch-disc-springs-touching-pressure-plate-fingers.html
This is the same issue I'm having. The fingers have engraved the clutch disk. And not disengaging the clutch.
---End Quote---
it also states the main reason why this happens is due to a mis adjusted clutch linkage. I will take pics of the modified clutch cable I used to get the extra travel required to get the clutch to work right. Using the bracket andres miko makes eliminates the need to ever modify the clutch cable.
As you can see I shortened the cable
Image: http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c393/cortrim1/2011-12-04214728.jpg
and added washers to increase adjustment
Image: http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c393/cortrim1/2011-12-04214746.jpg
as you can see the fingers on my cm setup and perfectly flat with the pressure plate torqued in the correct sequence
Image: http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c393/cortrim1/2011-08-20175209.jpg
did you get the flywheel surfaced before installing the clutch.
---End Quote---
Thank you for the pics.
1: i have had the flywheel resurfaced and is in spec
2: i have used tge 3/4 reducer mod
And the TOB now fully presses in,
However, the clutch hub is preventing the fingers from moving any further. There is 1/4 of finger space bwtween the clutch when fully bolted.
3: i have adjusted the clutch cable to where the cable has 1 inch of play from touching the TOB.
IM STUMPED! lol
---End Quote---
also make sure the clutch cable bracket on the firewall is not cracked. It will cause the whole setup to flex if its broken.
---End Quote---
Ok. So the both firewall and tranny brackets are sound.
The cable may be the culprit. The short cable may work.
My main question is if i had too much tension on the cable and it was fully pressed, why would it not disengage at all?
Here is a pic for reference. The whole reason i added more tension is because it would not disengage or go into gear.
Image: http://img.tapatalk.com/a6cd8ab8-e31a-d738.jpg
Can you see where the finger were fully pressed? It made a circle mark on the middle by the spindle spline.
---End Quote---
that looks like the back side of the clutch disc( the side that faces the flywheel. The raised center should face the pp. No disengaugement is a clutch cable length issue. I know when I snapped a cable and replaced it I had to modify the new cable to get it to disengauge. I have also had to do this on a clutch masters setup before as well. This is why I now have dre's bracket with a full extra 1" of adjustment.