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Thread: 93 SE-R overheating issues

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Posts: 21-30 of 36
2008-04-02 19:12:45
#21
Originally Posted by Straightpipes
Not with a funnel that screws on the radiator... Even if it does, so what?


I was just pointing out that it is pretty much the same method minus the jacking of the car. Just that mine description was more elaborately more thoroughly described and since when do they make screw on funnels
2008-04-02 19:42:26
#22
well before i put the rad in i saw a lil crap inside it and flushed it out for like 20 mins with the hose.......then the crap came out.


weres the bleeder screw???i was just queezing the rad hoses till bubles stopped coming out.....


but i still only put in like 3.5 quarts of coolant...and 2 quarts water.....is that enough????

i think im gonna drain it all and try it again.....but then i think my t-stat is fukced and should get a new on.....
2008-04-02 19:53:03
#23
Originally Posted by jere
I was just pointing out that it is pretty much the same method minus the jacking of the car. Just that mine description was more elaborately more thoroughly described and since when do they make screw on funnels


Its like a radiator cap with hole that a funnel goes into, thats what i ment.

Bleeder screw is on the T stat housing, at the top on the corner, if you didnt take it out while pouring coolant, or after to get the air out then what do you expect?
2008-04-02 19:57:21
#24
Its on the thermostat housing. It is the top one on one side or another. It has a sticker with an arrow pointing to it. Be warned it doesn't always bleed all the air out.
2008-04-02 19:58:26
#25
wow I type slow
2008-04-11 21:43:32
#26
ok so my nx almost overheats every time i drive it now.it starts to go past the middle mark on the temp guage and will keep going if i dont turn on the heater......

i even made an air difuser/coolong plate to direct cool air throught the rad......it brought driving temps down a lil bit but not enough....my only theroy why its ****ed up is......


1.the used radiator i have is clogged.therfore not flowing right......how common would this be for u used rad from a junkyard.....and can i clean it out with a pressure washer?
2.my watter pump is bad....which yesterday it or somting by the water pump started to make a queal/knocking noise which is driving my nut!!!!
3.theres air in the system maybe that i cannot get out......???ive bleed it and burped it numerous times.....
2008-04-11 21:44:42
#27
and to top it off i cant get my fans to turn on when the temp goes past the middle mark on my temp guage.......
2008-04-12 01:49:55
#28
Do you have any leaks? How are you bleeding the system? That little bolt hole doesn't always work right? Have you checked the T stat itself in boiling water? The squealing could very well mean your pump is dieing or has an air pocket or had one, they don't last long running dry, or it could just be its time
2008-04-12 15:26:35
#29
This is a typical problem with SR20's when they get old. Even worst on an NX with headers. This thread has been started several times on the SR20forum. It overheats on the highway because of lack of circulation (outside air). The fans turn off at highway speed and the heat off the manifold stays up there. I have a 300zx radiator cap, modine 2 core and even used water wetter. New water pump. I neglected to mention that it only happens with the A/C on at ambient temps above 90'. I hear the Nismo thermostat helps, but can only be used in warm months.
2008-04-12 18:35:03
#30
Originally Posted by jere
Do you have any leaks? How are you bleeding the system? That little bolt hole doesn't always work right? Have you checked the T stat itself in boiling water? The squealing could very well mean your pump is dieing or has an air pocket or had one, they don't last long running dry, or it could just be its time


how can i check the tstap in boiling water?
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