Thread: Clutch change - engine in (Problem Solved)

So my clutch finally started slipping the other day, and I already ordered a new clutch kit. Should be here in another day or so.

I was hoping to be able to avoid pulling axles and all that crap to just change the clutch, but from what I've been reading, that's not an option. Never changed the clutch with the engine/transmission in the car. I pretty much know what's in store for me, but is there any tips that anyone can offer that might make this task easier? Anything that should be checked while I'm at it, that may get overlooked?

do this at your own risk!!!

but the last two clutches i put in i haven't removed the axles or the crossmember from the car. but i do have solid mounts maybe thats y i can do it that way. i used to pull the crossmember and leave the axle which made me think. Why not keep the crossmember there too? i works fine you just have to be careful of the axle seal on the passenger side. the axle on the driverside can stay in reardless of how you do it.

doing it this way also stops the anoying time spent trying to line everything up. now you only have to line the rear bolts up.

I wondered about doing it that way, but didn't see where anyone tried it. Guess I'll just see how it goes. I figure it will be an all-day event anyway. :/

don't worry when you get good you'll be dropin trans in 30 mins like the pros lol.

Putting in a Clutchmasters FX400 6 puck. So hopefully I won't have to do this again for quite some time. Now I just need to find a stupid thick clutch cable.

Buy the oem nissan clutch cable. Spray it with lithium grease before install.

Just put a Nissan cable in about two weeks ago. Didn't think about putting any grease in it. Figured it was pre-greased. Guess I could do that while I'm changing the clutch though.

Does anyone make a thicker cable though? Tried searching, but came up empty handed.

I ALWAYS leave the cross member in. To much work to take out and I dont see why you would Taking the axles out isnt bad either. Disconect everything on the hub but the tie rod and ball joint (take the bracket off of the hub for the brakes dont take both pieces of the brake setup apart), bang the axles out the hubs with a rubber mallet after taking the nut off and then pop them out.

Theres three electric plugs that need to be disconnected from the tranny i believe. Use an engine lift to hold the tranny and then slide it off and drop it. Use the clutch cable bracket holes and some longer bolts for the chain on the hoist. Swap clutch, add lightweight flywheel and reverse!

You could have it done in two hours if you dont have all the powerstuff in the way

I'm no stranger to pulling axles. Lol. Just sucks that there is so much to do just to change a clutch. Like the starter.....I JUST put it on there!

I do believe I'm going to leave the driver side axle in though. That one is a little tough to get in and out.

IMO the driver axle is worth removing just to ensure that nothing happens to it, like tearing a boot. Passenger axle can stay in no problem, though. The driver axle isn't hard to remove if you do it right.