Thread: My "aftermarket" IACV.. :)

i could do away withthe iacvbuti dont think soon the aac valve my aem ems relies on the aac valve in the idle % vs target tables to sustain a certain rpm and hold that rpm, without the aac valve i wouldsay my particular car would be hell o even try and idle

wow....im going to give this a try (my IACV is poop status)

2k idle rpm FTMFL! lol

btw i to used a powerade bottle cap like you did ....lmao i was at work and the tape that was temp. there came off and car went boggin nuts on me so i finished gulping my powerade (yellow if you must know ) and walla pulled out my drill and tapped a few screws on there...but now i have a CAI so i don't need to worry about it any more )

wouldn't it default to something fuel wise if there was no signal? Or adjust for fuel based on 02 sensor output? Since your air control would be totally mechanical it wouldn't be an issue, only the fuel would. You could always use a resistor or something too.

normally the air regulator under the intake manifoldis the only real idle motor issues you will face or that causes the most problems. the aac valve just gets dirty from time to time and needs to be cleaned but thats a 10min ordeal

kk went outside and did this ...woo woo now my car idles like a normal sr...and can somewhat hear the cams lol...


one thing thoughcar wants to die out after i let go of the acc. pedal ....something i did wrong? ...or is this the down fall i get in return for not replacing the iacv?....either way i can live with it.....but wouldn't be able to live with the 2k rpm idle lol

Fair enough but I just prefer to do away with the electronics crap completely especially since my AAC and IACV did basically nothing for my car even in timing mode



Sounds like you have restricted too much airflow. Try letting your warm idle be around 1000 or so and it should work ok. Like I said, before the engine is warm it will want to die but it should work fine warm. Just play with it while the engine is warm until its good. Plus removing all the valves will help a lot I am sure because the restrict a lot of flow.

i definitly see where you are coming from, and i know you seen my post about 5k idle lol, that was directly related to not just software issues but the dan AAC valve, i definitly would do away with them if icould and use all manal valves for airbypass.... they are definitly a pai in the neck

Well you could always try haha. It's only a few bucks and if it turned out to mess up stuff you could just hook the stuff back up again

werd so i finally got myself a new/working IACV (thanks to mark20 ) and i took this temp ghetto idle controler off ....deff wish i knew about this a while ago though ...owell


bumping for a nice Temp. fix on idle

Haha forget the temp fix, this is a permanent improvement for me

I played with it a little more today and found it works TONS better once the other crap (air reg valve, IACV, AAC) are out of the way. I rerouted it to the PCV entrance (which also is a better air entrance than the far side of mani since it's evenly distributed at PCV) and just threw a breather on the PCV valve and plugged the normal air reg hose up. Now I can adjust from under 800 up to almost 2000 with no problems. Haven't got to try a cold start yet. It looks neat this way too!