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Thread: Oil Pan Gasket Maker?

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Posts: 21-30 of 61
2011-10-01 12:37:43
#21
The ultra grey is rated to 625*F, the ultra black is good to 500*F. The Grey is rigid, or a bit stiffer. Both have a cure time of approx 24 hours. I say, FORGET IT!

RIGHT STUFF comes in Ultra Black, and Grey, and has a 5 min cure time. I've used it on a ton of cars and never 1 leak. Even with bent up oil pan flanges on beater cars. Last year this time my wife's car was leaking oil. I took the oil pan off the GA16, scraped off the old stuff, put some right stuff black on the pan, bolted it on. IMMEDIATELY filled with oil, and went out to dinner.

It's been a year, and it is holding up freakin' incredible. I didn't have to cure it. I am now using it in all my projects. From my transmission builds, to various projects. It's in a cheese-whiz can so you don't have to hurt yourself squeezing a tube.

Seriously... RIGHT STUFF FTW
/Thread. lol
2011-10-01 12:42:40
#22
Originally Posted by natethebrown
I use Ultra Blue....Not really sure which one is actually better.

I talked with my permatex rep when he came into my store, and he said the Ultra Blue is a Chrysler spec silicon, designed to swell slightly when in contact with oil. The regular blue is just a basic silicon. Now, the High temp red is just old tech. The Grey is only 25* shy of beating out the red in temp resistance. The old Red and Blue are like the old Black. '50s technology. The ULTRA series is the newest, best stuff.

Originally Posted by BenFenner
You can look at the specs on the tubes and find out which are better. Basically Ultra Grey resists all the chemicals found in an engine bay, maintains it's flexibility, has a great temp range, and seals under even high clamping load applications. It is everything the black stuff is, but with the added ability to resist squeezing out from the joint under high clamping loads. Check out what the blue stuff does and compare.

Also the grey stuff hides very well versus all the other colors. =D


This permatex dealer also said exactly this. The Ultra grey resists all oils, of any type, including all Group IV and V synthetics (which the black sometimes has a hard time with sealing long term) and it has zero drawbacks. Can be used for sealing practically anything.
2011-10-01 13:14:43
#23
Ultra gray baby. " I put that sh!t on everything".
2011-10-02 18:31:20
#24
Originally Posted by Chill
Toyota FIPG!


This, plus it helps working at a yota dealer and having a bunch of extra tubes laying around

Originally Posted by XxToKeSxX
It doesn't matter... as long as you clean it correctly and get rid of gasket material and any oil etc before you apply you will be alright. I always clean it with a credit card or something flat and then wipe down with a rag soaked in gas or carb/brake cleaner (something volatile).

Done 3 or 4 upper and lower pans and used the black, grey, red, yadda yadda. All have been fine. I like to use grey and black.


This is the main factor, it doesn't matter what brand you use, if both surfaces aren't clean it won't seal worth a damn. I can't tell you how many oil pans I've resealed that were done at other shops because the other shop did a half assed job cleaning it and they started leaking again right away.
2011-10-02 18:55:58
#25
I'll be the first to admit I didn't do a great job on my wife's GA. I didn't have time to make sure all the old gasket was off. I scraped off most of it though. Not even seepage by the pan. right stuff rules.
2011-10-05 20:50:24
#26
Subaru fuji bond. Pimp nasty.
2011-10-06 04:27:06
#27
right stuff ftmfw
This is what I use, except gray
Last edited by SENTRASER on 2011-10-06 at 04-37-39.
2011-10-06 05:13:36
#28
I've used Nissan OEM Red/Orange (old school LOL) & Gray as well as Permatex Red and Grey

No noticeable difference in performance/durability. As long as you prep the surface correctly and apply the right way/amount, they will all do the job for years to come.
2011-10-09 06:37:19
#29
Originally Posted by Coheed
The ultra grey is rated to 625*F, the ultra black is good to 500*F. The Grey is rigid, or a bit stiffer. Both have a cure time of approx 24 hours. I say, FORGET IT!

RIGHT STUFF comes in Ultra Black, and Grey, and has a 5 min cure time. I've used it on a ton of cars and never 1 leak. Even with bent up oil pan flanges on beater cars. Last year this time my wife's car was leaking oil. I took the oil pan off the GA16, scraped off the old stuff, put some right stuff black on the pan, bolted it on. IMMEDIATELY filled with oil, and went out to dinner.

It's been a year, and it is holding up freakin' incredible. I didn't have to cure it. I am now using it in all my projects. From my transmission builds, to various projects. It's in a cheese-whiz can so you don't have to hurt yourself squeezing a tube.

Seriously... RIGHT STUFF FTW
/Thread. lol


What's the best to get, the black or grey?
2011-10-09 07:27:22
#30
Gray^^^
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