Thread: Rediculous Idle

So i put an EGR block off kit from Nisport, and now my Nx2000 (highport sr20de) has a real messed up idle. i could not remove the egr tube, or the one off the aiv to the header, so i cut\ crimped them shut.

The car will stall out on cold start if i dont give it gas often, but when it warms up to normal operating temp, the idle is low and unstable

If you need more info on my problem lemme know

also the idle adjustment screw was stripped when i went to adjust it, so i took the whole assembly off (it was held on by 4 bolts, and has 2 harnesses on it) to attempt to fix the screw and make it turnable. but i am still a little unsure of how to adjust my idle

i have serched but i cant really understand a lot of what people say

Thanks ahead of time

Also i am planning on getting a new header to make the exhaust leaks less of a problem

Can you tell us exactly what you blocked off, and what is left dangling, etc. ?

Going from a good idle to a much lower idle when removing the EGR stuff is not something I've heard of. It's easy to get a higher idle by accident, but not common to get a lower one.

As for how the idle system works, there are four main systems, located in two different assemblies. They are confusingly labeled and often called the wrong thing by pretty much everyone, including me. You could go to the FSM to get all this info, but I'll try to spell it out correctly for once.


Assembly #1 - AICV (Auxiliary Idle Control Valve): http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/PrettyWhite/IMG_2618.jpg

Idle Control #1) IACV - Air Regulator also known as AICV (Auxiliary Idle Control Valve) or Cold Idle Valve. It is open when the valve is cold, and slowly closes as the valve warms up from the incoming air and from an internal electric heater. It accomplishes this with a bi-metal strip. This is a stand-alone assembly. It can be found by the firewall below or behind the intake manifold.
More: http://www.sr20-forum.com/600784-post18.html


Assembly #2 - IACV/AAC (Idle Air Control Valve/Auxiliary Air Control): http://www.sr20-forum.com/usergallery/814a56106a9e8a5.jpg

Idle Control #2) IACV - Idle Screw. This is the first part of the general idle control assembly. The screw controls a small, independent air passageway that provides idle air at all times to the engine. Screwing it "out" provides more air, and is analogous to slightly cracking open the throttle plate some. Your engine doesn't stall when coming to a stop because of this control.

Idle Control #3) IACV/ACC (Idle Air Control Valve/ACC). This is the second part of the general idle control assembly. This is a PWM controlled valve that the ECU uses as the main idle control valve. It also provides the finest control of the idle air. Your engine holds a perfectly steady idle mainly because of this control.

Idle Control #4) IACV/FICD (Idle Air Control Valve/Fast Idle Control Device). This is the third part of the general idle control assembly. This valve is an on/off valve used by the ECU to raise the idle when the A/C is on and possibly when the power steering pressure is high during full lock.

Thanks for the quick response,
What i took off was the Egr valve, the Bpt valve, and the Aiv valve. i put a plate on the intake manifold where the EGR was, and another where the EGR tube was.. i then crimped the 2 tubes in the header, one from the EGR tube, and the other is the tube that comes out from under the Aiv. i also removed that black box (not the oil separator) that was connected to the Aiv. Also the Aiv Control solenoid valve was removed, leaving the connector for it hanging.
i followed this link to do it.
http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-maintenance/24765-egr-delete-information.html

And when i disconnected the TPS the idle was way high, like 1,500, so i think its just the ECU thats making it lower and unstable.
When i get home today im going to make sure everything looks good again, and probably clean out all these idle related assemblies.
Thank you sooo much for your post!

ive been workihng at it all day...still soo fucked up

have you sprayed for vacuum leaks?

This one was my issue. My Lowport was stalling until warmed unless I held the gas pedal down just like yours. I recently did some porting on the head and intake mani. Well, I didn't get all of the metal dust out of the mani when I cleaned it. Some got trapped in the vacuum nipple that feeds the valve. I swapped it out for a good one, and problem solved. These can get clogged from normal carbon and oil buildup. So, I'd go ahead and clean it with some throttle body cleaner. You should also test it with a volt meter to see if it's not burnt out. Set the selector switch on ohms in the triple digit range, and hold it to the 2 pins on the valve where the plug goes. FSM spec is 70-80 ohms. If this doesn't help, then at least it'll be clean, and you can mark it off the list of potential problems.

I found out what the FICD valve is for an edited the post above accordingly. I'm gunna post that in the How To section I think.