Thread: oil..

I would like to try Amsoil Series 2000 20W-50 Synthetic Racing oil but haven't been able to as yet

is royal purp any good? or that vr1?

what oil are you currently using, to check for sludge pop the valve cover off and see how it looks. it could be normal wear and tear...

gunk motor flush works really well. so does seafoam in the crank, through the brake booster, and in the tank. if there is that much sludge, pop off the valve cover and have a look and clean while you can.

personally, i would run the GC 0w-30. great qualities, and is possibly one of the best oils you can buy at your local autozone. when its cold, its a 0 weight, but when it warms up, its more of a lighter 40w.

bitog actually has a thread on thus oils:

GC 0w30 vs. M1 0w30 vs. M1 0w40 vs. RTS 5w40 - Bob Is The Oil Guy

http://www.sr20-forum.com/vvl/17444-0w30-castrol.html

I've heard this too. I'm going to try it this weekend.

5/40 rotella synthetic is what i run on my ve. i think it was coheed that posted how great it was comparred to other oils. i have no complaints.

just put it in the drag car as well, I'll find out if I like it after a few runs.

how does a straight 50weight compare to say a 5w 40

straight 50 would have some awful starts in the winter time...awful starts period. 5w is thin enough for cold starts and the 40 is great for a warm motor.

Well I changed my oil about 2 weeks ago. It had been about 7 months, and near 2750 miles since my last. I've been using Valvoline Max life Synthetic blend (The red bottle) 10W-30. It's been working great so far. Since I buy the 5 quart bottle at walmart It's been adding up only needing 3 5/8 per change. I needed 2 quarts more, so I decided to mix in a little Valvoline VR1 10W-30 synthetic. Feels a little better. It's supposed to have a little more zinc/phosphorus, and less detergent content. I've been doing some reading about what's in oil, and higher zinc/phos levels create a protective film on the contact surfaces in the engine, which in turn reduces friction. This only really helps if there is little to no detergents present. High detergents prevent the protective film from even forming, because it just keeps washing it away. The catch is that it's not suggested if you have a cat, because it may clog it from the higher mineral content. So, less friction=more WHP. My buddy did a full oil change with the VR1, and he said it pulls harder. It's $9.00 a QT though, but worth it in my opinion.