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Thread: oil..

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Posts: 1-10 of 21
2011-09-20 17:15:50
#1
oil..
just changed my oil. it was black and like poored out like 0w-20 when it started out as 10w-40. i put in 10w-30 this time, and now a week later, it already looks dirty... whats the deal?
2011-09-20 17:18:52
#2
Blackstone Labs
2011-09-20 17:21:56
#3
Originally Posted by ga16eats
just changed my oil. it was black and like poored out like 0w-20 when it started out as 10w-40. i put in 10w-30 this time, and now a week later, it already looks dirty... whats the deal?


It turning black doesn't mean that its "dirty". Search search search..

Oil Color, Lubrication Ability and Contamination Level
It is a common misconception that an oil’s color is an indication of how “dirty” it is. This is not true. It is often a common tactic used at quick lubes and service centers; the technician pulls the dipstick and wipes it on a white shop cloth and shows the customer how “black and dirty” it is. Any oil will turn black after a short period of use. Some oils may stay “clean” looking longer than others, but eventually they all will turn black. This is perfectly normal.

When someone tells me how “clean” their oil is because they have pulled the dipstick and it looks clean I always tell them that it will eventually turn black. They also tell me when they pull the dipstick and it has becomes black and “dirty” it will require changing. That’s about the time I will pull my dipstick in one of my trucks and show them how black and “dirty” the oil is. I will then produce my latest oil analysis test report that provides laboratory chemical and spectrographic test data confirming that the oil perfectly suitable for continued service.

In general, the color of an oil does not have any bearing on its lubrication ability or whether or not the oil is suitable for continued use*. Most oil and especially diesel engine oil will turn black in the first few hours of operation due to contaminates generated by the combustion process and soot particles. It is the job of the filtration system to filter out the larger sized soot particles that can cause engine wear and the additive package of the oil to neutralize and hold in suspension the soot particles that are too small for the filter to trap and hold.

* Under certain conditions such fuel dilution, water contamination or glycol contamination, for example, the color can provide insight that something is mechanically wrong and in need of repair and/or additional analysis, however under normal operating conditions without mechanical problems present the black color which is commonly referred to as “dirty oil” in the vehicle servicing industry does not have any bearing on its lubrication ability.

The only way to accurately determine an oils lubricating value or contamination level is through (spectrographic) oil analysis. Oil analysis is common practice used regularly in commercial, industrial and fleet operations and can also be used for passenger cars, light trucks or any other application.

The useful life of an engine oil is dependent on several factors such as the quality of the oil, additive package blended in the oil and the TBN level of the oil (the ability of an oil to neutralize acidic by-products of combustion), type of fuel, equipment condition, type and operating environment of the equipment and the type of filtration.

The filtration system and the oil are vital tools for preserving engine life. A highly efficient oil filter is essential to protect an engine by removing both liquid abrasive contaminants held in suspension by the oil. It must be stated and understood with critical importance that there are wide variances in the quality of motor oils. Certain lower quality oils do not have quality base stock oils and additive packages to support long drain intervals while other higher quality oils can have significantly longer drain intervals. There are two oil manufacturers that I am aware of that make a premium quality synthetic motor oil that has standard recommended drain interval of 25,000 miles/1-year and one oil manufacturer has a 35,000 mile/1-year premium quality severe service synthetic oil with standard filtration or no oil changes with by-pass filtration and oil analysis monitoring. The subject of extended drain intervals and synthetics will be discussed in later sections.

Also keep in mind that the micron rating of an engine oil filter means absolutely nothing unless the efficiency (particle capture percentage) of the filter is stated also. If a filter is stated to be a “10 micron filter” but the efficiency graph shows it only traps 5% of the 10 micron particles then it isn’t doing much good at filtering out 10 micron particles. Oil filtration and wear particles will be discussed in detail in section 17.


found here Motor Oils and Engine Lubrication Book: Motor Oil Engineers
2011-09-20 17:22:36
#4
my mechanic said there is just a bunch of sludge shit built up in my engine from the previous owner, and when i rev the shit out of it, im nocking all the crud into the oil... he said so use and engine flush... does this sound right? because i dont think so...
2011-09-20 17:23:51
#5
thx for the links.. ill read up
2011-09-20 17:54:01
#6
anyone have opinion on the best oil for street/ strip engine abuse?
2011-09-20 17:56:42
#7
Shell rotella t6 5-40w diesel oil
2011-09-20 18:00:01
#8
why a diesel oil?
2011-09-20 18:07:00
#9
I'm not to sure on it but I read it in posts on the old forum about the diesel oil has different properties in it to preserve our motors and withstand the high temps from turbos. I have been running this oil for years and it comes out almost as clean when it goes in.
2011-09-20 18:13:31
#10
hmm, let me know if you find out why
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