Thread: SR20ve vs SR20det

Torque is what makes a good daily driver, and a DET has it in spades over a VE. With a good tune, a DET can get good gas mileage as well, and will be allot quieter than a VE running through the same size exhaust.

Put it together properly, do a boost leak test, don't cheap out on clamps, and get a JWT or Calum ecu. Last time I checked, there were plenty of .bin files out there for DET's, so that's not going to be a problem.

You'll be tempted to turn the boost up once you get used to it, but make sure you have enough injector and maf to handle it.

Torque - it's what makes a good DD.

C

Turbo's are so 5 years ago. Real men dont need enhancers.

n/a takes to much money to go fast.. i know you JUST got your car to be fast dan but you will get used to it lol

Wasn't the OP asking for a comparison of basically stock VE vs DET? A stock DET will walk all over an VE. Need more horsepower once everything is in and running well? Easy as pie, turning up the boost costs anywhere from $15 for an MBC to $200 for a used EBC. How's that compare to a VE, or any other NA engine?????

Got >$10k to build a big VE, have fun. That's not what this thread is about.

C

lynch, why did you get a new oil strainer. also that bushing in the end of the crank is not used on the maunal tranny but you can leave it in place, if you look at the input shaft of the tranmission it is not long enough to fit into rear of crank where bushing is. its just used for machining purposes at the factory. also the one you get in the kit is to small to fit over the input shaft of the tranmission. had to scratch my head over that a few times before i checked the input shaft depth

ok i got a new oil pickup tube And oil pan from Gspec because mine came damaged.

as for that ring thing.. ya i found that out the hard way lol.. i did use a pilot bushing but again, its not needed.. live an learn..

my car was my first ve swap and since then i've done many, seems like i learn something or find a new way of doing stuff every time.

still reading your build on the se-r. one i did was a 91 se-r that had a blown head gasket and 2 bad cams so i bought one of the UK non turbo red top engines to put into it. i have a hoist in the garage and found it easier to drop the stuff out the bottom. i asked the guy if it had any other problems and he said no but once i got engine in and driving i found out 5th gear was not there. it didn't grind or pop out, its just wan't there, was like you were in neutral so had to call place i got engine from and have them send me another lsd 5 speed. i replaced almost every part on that car so it would drive like new, new ball joints, exhaust sytem, radiator, wheel bearings, brakes etc

i feel you man, keep reading my thread i document every tiny little thing i do no matter how stupid it is.. but its my contribution to the forum an it can be really handy to learn from my mistakes or discoveries ect.

i got offered a price i couldn't refuse on the 91 se-r so i sold it and bought 2 nx2000's over past couple months, the both run decent but going to vvl one of them i guess. can always put a turbo in the other one if im not impressed with the ve engine. not sure its worth documenting mine with pics and post on here since you did such a good job posting yours. and i get to do all the work myself, no group of americas most wanted to help me lol. no shipping reply from engine zone yet, might have to call them tomorrow if they don't respond by time i get up. did have one question for you, do you know if the pan gasket, vc gasket and front and rear seals are the same as the DE, i always replace the front and rear seals before i put engine in, also since water pump is such a pain on these when engine is in i also replace it first

Use rtv on the oil pans instead of a gasket, for the f/r main seals, vc, and wp, get them for a rr motor. 2000-2001 de