Thread: Problems with Prothane Mounts......

Installed all mount bolts and vibrations still exist. I now wasted money on new mounts, and new hardware. The search continues.

Same. I put in all bolts and such.I put in new control arms, ball joints, strut mounts, axles, struts. Im going to order the soilid shift stabilizer bushing and see if it helps. Also, i and taking apart everything that has to do with my shift linkage.

still sounds like driveline movement to me. Unless it's the same engine/clutch/trans you had in the B14, you can't really compare them. Your B14 trans might have less play than the B13's due to age, abuse, worn internals, etc. From everything that's been discussed, the only evidence you have of this is the movement in the shifter, which is connected to the driveline through a rubber bushing.

And, installing new hardware and replacing your missing bolts is hardly a 'waste of money'. I understand you're feeling frustrated but you're moving in the right direction no matter how you look at it.

anyone get this yet??? its gotten worse in my car. it feels like a broke back motor mount and like the engine is picking up and dropping.

Wingman I appreciate all the support you been giving us on this thread helps out alot. I am actually using the b14 transmission in my car right now with 130K. The b13 trans I removed had 230K on it, with both transmissions I was getting the same problem so it's not the play in transmission like someone was describing up above. When this engine shakes it feels like it moves forward stops on rubber...then it feels like it rocks back and bounces on rubber. The control arms, wheels bearings all feel and looked solid. I just installed the full energy suspension master bushing kit not too long ago as well there should be no problems in those areas. I am going to message this member for these....and see if they work for me.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/g20/43458-fs-p11-crossmember-aluminum-delrin-bushing-combo.html

http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension-brakes/43462-ca-fs-p11-p10-b13-b14-b15-crossmember-aluminum-delrin-bushing-combo.html


I am still working on it bro but, it's getting real cold out and my patience for this thing is wearing very low. If anyone has any ideas speak up I am willing to try anything right now. I am honestly considering getting some bars welded to the body then bolting them up to the engine.......I didn't want to band aid the problem, that is why I have not done so yet .
Here another short thread to read into : http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/19722-replaced-all-motor-mounts-engine-still-bucks-during-shifting.html

I dont understand why prothane is being blamed for your problem. Everyone here whos had or has them knows they are good shit. Even you said it...why would you be sending prothane an angry email

These cars arent known for feeling the most solid while driving

I said that because originally I was thinking it was a fault in the mounts, just for the record I have not sent any e-mails to prothane. I mean the the 2 piece passenger side mount can be improved alot.....That was one thing that was going to be included in the email. Not only do you have to cut out some of the rubber to screw in the mount bolts, There is no way a 2 piece design is stronger than a 1 piece..... It does make it alot easier to install that's the only benefit I see.

Oh yeah I saw those, and decided to just get some bolts from home depot. I bolted the cross member down solid, and made a solid front mount. There's a ton of positive motion now when engaging the clutch, and the little movement I had went away.

If you stick a screw driver in the stock mount you can move it fairly easily. Now put in the 2 piece mount and try the same thing, it wont move very much. The mount is pinched between 2 pieces of metal, once torqued it will not move.

Ordering the washers and spacers for the xmember will help.

I think its the clutch if you ask me. My Matrix when cold and parked outside will do what you are describing due to what i think is a little moisture build up on the flywheel.

The pad surface might also be glazed over a little, i would inspect/replace the clutch.

Get someone to drive the car. And see if they fee like its not normal. Theres not but so many things it can be. Just start eliminating them as cheap as you can one by one.