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Thread: Issue with car stalling when putting clutch in

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Posts: 1-5 of 5
2011-09-04 21:48:39
#1
Issue with car stalling when putting clutch in
Ive got a mate ive been trying to help fix this problem, its a N15 Autech, sr20de, with a daughter board, rb25 maf, otherwise pretty stock.

When you are driving and put clutch down, it stalls immediatly, afr goes full lean, and even pumping the gas pedal only just keeps its going.

If you stop and turn the key to restart, it idles immediatly perfectly, if you pop the clutch back out say rolling down a hill, it drives perfectly again, but dip the clutch and it stalls again.

I disconnected the vac line to the fuel pres reg, and the prob went away, so fitted another stock fpr, and it was ok, tuned it and handed it back, but 10 mins later the prob came back and has been as bad again since.

He dropped it off last night, im going to have another look today. I'm going to clean the TB and IAC and see if that helps, but the IAC is on 50% duty when it stalls, and has no trouble with making a 2000rpm base idle if i wind it up with the tune. The bleed screw is all the way out tho.

I dont think its the tune, ive tried 3 different base maps, and 2 ecu's. He said it was fine before he fitted the maf and ecu, but doesnt have the stock ones anymore, and the maf and ecu didnt do this fault on the original car that the ecu and maf came off, which was a identical model.

Any ideas of stuff i might not have tried would be much appreciated.
2011-09-05 00:15:40
#2
sticking EGR valve?
2011-09-05 01:27:00
#3
No egr on a JDM N15 sr20de. Its a odd fault, the afr goes full lean, but it shouldnt be a bin file or ecu issue, but i could be approaching things wrong.

Working on it atm, one thing at a time, cleaning TB 1st then will try get IAC valve off and clean that, set base idle and timing, and then go from there.
2011-09-05 07:31:03
#4
So far so good, cleaned throttle body, checked earths, and reset idle in timing mode, idle air screw is now a lot further in.

One of these solved it lol.
2011-09-05 07:44:45
#5
AAC should be between 10-16 at warm idle, my guess is that it was a lot higher than that which means it was having trouble opening up enough to keep the engine alive.

Cleaning the TB will help this by removing deposits from the butterfly essentially allowing more air to bypass (as the TB plate never fully closes/seals), which would then have the AAC closing more bringing it back closer the spec it should have been in and also why the screw could be set further in for idle.

Hopefully the problem stays fixed.
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