Thread: Fuel pump fuse

I'm just about fed up. 2-3 months ago i had to replace the coolant hoses that run around the back of the motor. We all know how much fun that is. I took the intake off to acomplish this. After i was done the car started to run lean, and would break up after 4500 RPM. Mostly when the turbo kicked in. This was running at 9 PSI. When i lowered the boost controller to 7 it wasnt as bad as far as breaking up but it was still running lean. Well about a month ago i broke a fuel injector. Completely flooded the entire engine. Replaced all 4 injectors with used ones and cleaned out all the vacuum lines and such and of course changed the oil. I was able to drive the car after the injector install but it was still running lean. Well a week ago Monday i go and get gas. On the way back the car dies. Pop the hood and instantly notice i have no fuel pressure. Check the fuse and it's blown. Replace it, get another half a mile down the road and bam. Blows again. It blew 2 more times before i got the car home. The first time it blew i was cruising. The next 3 times was when i was giving it gas.

So i figure between the running lean and the fuse blowing perhaps the Walbro is dieing. So i get a new Walbro. Installed it yesterday. Finished the car late so i didn't get to drive it till today. Well. The fuse still keeps blowing. And the car still runs a little lean. Before the coolant hose repair my fuel pressure was set at 45. And the car ran great. Now i have it up to 58 and it's still lean at idle. Wherever i have the FP ( anywhere between 40-60 ) the fuse is blowing. Anyone have any idea what the hell could be causing the fuse to blow?

I figured i'd check out the FSM to see what shares the fuel pump fuse but couldn't find anything. Anyone know off hand?

The Air Reg shares the same circuit as the FP.

sounds like your fuel return line might be clogged.
That can cause your pump to run hot and burn out.

Air reg is the do dad that has the 2 large vacuum lines that attach to the bottom of the intake correct?

I'm pretty sure the return line isn't clogged, but i'll check. When i was waiting for the injectors to show up i had both return and incoming lines off. One day i notice a puddle under the car. Pop the hood and the return line is dripping. Pressure built up in the tank and i assume was pushing it back up the return line. But thats easy enough to see if it's clogged. Getting up the back of the motor to check the air regulator isn't.

Yes it is.

Finally got a chance to look at the car today. Damn rain. Took it for a ride. 5 minutes of normal driving and the fuse didn't blow. So i give it a little gas. Hit 4500 RPM. And blow the fuse. Well, now i can't turn the key to on without it blowing the fuse. Had to get the car towed home. So it went from blowing while accelerating to blowing anytime i turn the key to on. I disconnected the electrical connector for the fuel pump ( by the sending unit ) put in a new fuse, turn the key and bam. Blown fuse. If it doesn't rain tomorrow i'm gonna try to disconnect the air regulator and see if it still blows. If it does, then i have no idea what the hell is wrong with this thing.

trace the wire and look for it being shorted to ground.

Found it. 3.5 years of owning the car and i'm still dealing with years of butchering and half assedness. Pretty much all of the wiring has been hacked. Even the ECM wires were sliced and a new ECM pigtail soldered in. Well the aux air reg was no different. They pulled back the sheathing and cut the wires. They twisted the wires of the new connector and heat shrinked it. Well something on the back of the motor wore away the heat shrink and whala ( this is why they put the plastic sheath, to prevent crap like this from happening ). I'm not sure what it was rubbing against, but it wore away about an inch of the wires insulation.

- That dang aux regulator connector caused me some problems as well. Glad you figured it out.