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Thread: pressing bearing failed, what is to blame?

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Posts: 51-59 of 59
2011-09-25 04:20:05
#51
Originally Posted by SENTRASER
See I this computes, wheel bearing looses lubrication, bearing gets hot, gets hub hot, hub softens and becomes smaller, gets looser in bearing.

When you tighten 32mm nut it expands hub and squeezes it against the wheel bearing.


Lol, I add some juice to that and it all fits.

So it seems.



p.s. can someone explain to me when I meet American girly girly in my somehwat like Kentuky village, they all run away when the heck whatever I tell them, they run away like if they never watched CNN in their lifetime?
2011-09-25 04:24:11
#52
You understand, yes or no? I don't understand your question...
2011-09-25 04:28:06
#53
You seem to be testing me.

I do not like.

b
2011-09-25 05:40:38
#54
You said you add juice to it and it all fits, do you understand why the hub failed or not? I'm not testing you, but you are in fact speaking in broken not understandable, atleast to me, English in your question about Kentucky and girly girl, and CNN. Are you drunk or something? Lol
2011-09-26 00:05:29
#55
Originally Posted by richardwbb
Today I brought both of my wheel bearing assemblies to garage, together with new bearings to let them press them for me.

When I picked them up, the first assembly was fine, the other just won't press, something is too big.

Looks ok from this side:


When I lift up the assembly, this is what is left behind on the table:


And the ring in the last pic, that one had to be pressed on to.

So I suppose it is a bad bearing, but I would like to hear what you think.

you need a new hub plain and simple. the shop you took it to should have easily spotted this, dont go back to them because they clearly have no clue what their doing.

you last bearing wore away the inner part of the hub to the point the OD of the hub is smaller than the ID of the bearing.

Originally Posted by SR20?
The inner race is pressed onto the spindle. The outer race is pressed into the hub. From the looks of your pics, I think it looks normal. Just put it back together, stick your axle through, and run your axle nut down with an impact. If that doesn't work...go warranty your bearing. :P

....no

Originally Posted by richardwbb
Yes, the guy pressing for me, which is educated properly, didn't put it in.


if he forgot the seal........and didnt notice the hub was BADLY worn, to the point it has no resistance at all and just falls out.........i would have to say, i REALLY hope your not paying him

Originally Posted by richardwbb
Gaaaaaaaah!

The replacement wheel bearing has the same problem. Tomorrow I'll try getting that part on the second pic in the first post, from another wheel hub assembly, some other stuff on this Nx when I bought it turned out to be Mickey Mouse repairs, so maybe that is why the central nut on the axle turned out to be loose and all the bird noises from that side.

I'm totally fed up with this.

this happens when the hub is worn like yours because not only is the bearing making noise but the hub is moving side to side (like a bent bike wheel) this causes the nut to loosen. jen36 was having these problems and we got a new hub and he has been perfect since.

Originally Posted by jen36
is it just me or the inner part of the wheel bearing is still stuck to your spindle! You have to knock that race off. Also if your new bearing just slides in then you need a new spindle because your spindle is worn where the bearing rides on. It should need force to push in.....if not the same crap is going to happen everytime

yo J, its the hub thats worn the spindle is the part the strut bolts to.

Originally Posted by richardwbb
Worn hub?

A. Really?

B. How come a local garage, a nearing supplier, me, a Dutch forum, this forum, totally miss this?

C. How you know and where are you?

lets see if i can tackle this for ya.

A. REALLY!
B. because i had not commented on the matter yet.
C. i know because i know ALL!

do you see above the bearing race that it is rusted and dull? that is supposed to be very tight in the bearing. rust only forms when there is space for moisture to get in. YOUR HUB IS WORN! THIS IS YOUR ONLY ISSUE! i have personally had this problem and fixed this problem on 50+ cars. i will give you $100 if you get a new hub, bearing, and seals and you still have the problem. i give you my word on that.
Last edited by classicaddict on 2011-09-26 at 00-28-42.
2011-10-01 03:17:06
#56
Lol, I understand now, that so the central locking nut came loose, or that nut wasn't torqued properly, about 15k miles of bird chirping without being able to find the cause (yes, I assumed the central locking nut was torqued) makes the spindle wear out. That must have been some major play then.

Thank you for clarifying, while I'm still not sure what OD and ID mean, also can't imagine the spindle can wear out, or in other words, how it could make contact to the other surface while there is so much room, but you made the cause vivid in my head. And that can be hard

So, when one buys a used car, just torque 'em to spec instead of going wtf? at every chirp for a long time, while there was no axial play to be found on the bearing (testing is a little complicated also)

Btw, after replacing both bearings, so removing both hubs and reinstalling them, I found another clunky sound on both sides. I can't really imagine what it is, all is in good shape, in a way of no metal metal contact, free play isn't found with that rod you can use with removing a tire from a rim and yet it clunks.

I'll replace everything before posting about that clunk here. Promise.
2011-10-01 03:42:38
#57
Originally Posted by richardwbb
Lol, I understand now, that so the central locking nut came loose, or that nut wasn't torqued properly, about 15k miles of bird chirping without being able to find the cause (yes, I assumed the central locking nut was torqued) makes the spindle wear out. That must have been some major play then.

Thank you for clarifying, while I'm still not sure what OD and ID mean, also can't imagine the spindle can wear out, or in other words, how it could make contact to the other surface while there is so much room, but you made the cause vivid in my head. And that can be hard

So, when one buys a used car, just torque 'em to spec instead of going wtf? at every chirp for a long time, while there was no axial play to be found on the bearing (testing is a little complicated also)

Btw, after replacing both bearings, so removing both hubs and reinstalling them, I found another clunky sound on both sides. I can't really imagine what it is, all is in good shape, in a way of no metal metal contact, free play isn't found with that rod you can use with removing a tire from a rim and yet it clunks.

I'll replace everything before posting about that clunk here. Promise.

OD = outer diameter
ID = inner diameter

for your new clunk, check your sway bar endlinks.
2011-10-01 04:43:06
#58
I had a bearing do that once, and was able to salvage it. There was a plastic clip inside the bearing that held it all together, and it just let go of the race. I put it back on the press and sandwiched it all back together and it went back together.

It is now on my car now, and hasn't given me any issues at all.

I have a spare knuckle here with a bearing in it, I should do a write-up on how to press in your own bearings...hmmm.
2011-10-03 05:10:55
#59
Hey Coheed if you still decide to do a write up I could surely use it. I had a bearing with 8-10K miles come apart just like the OPs. I might have the same issue you did with the plastic clip. I need to shoot you a pm and get this fixed. Bought 2 new bearings for my track car and want to save some funds, got a buddy with a press who can help.
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