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Thread: Fuel pump won't prime and fuel pump fuse problem

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Posts: 51-60 of 62
2012-09-27 01:46:04
#51
bump
2012-09-27 06:44:32
#52
bump
2012-09-27 14:25:10
#53
So what wire did you connect +12v to for the pump to kick on?
2012-09-29 10:16:39
#54
Originally Posted by WingmanSR20
So what wire did you connect +12v to for the pump to kick on?


i tried wiring it directly to the battery, thats how i tested it. The first pump i got busted so i replaced it with new one, then i eliminated the pump problem.

Then i tried using a multimeter to gauge how many volts is flowing to the wires that plugs to the pump. and its only 0.03V. It must be 12V to operate the pump properly.
2012-09-29 14:42:06
#55
Originally Posted by datsun_sky
Originally Posted by WingmanSR20
So what wire did you connect +12v to for the pump to kick on?


i tried wiring it directly to the battery, thats how i tested it. The first pump i got busted so i replaced it with new one, then i eliminated the pump problem.

Then i tried using a multimeter to gauge how many volts is flowing to the wires that plugs to the pump. and its only 0.03V. It must be 12V to operate the pump properly.


I mean which pump wire....
2012-10-01 08:43:28
#56
Originally Posted by WingmanSR20
Originally Posted by datsun_sky
Originally Posted by WingmanSR20
So what wire did you connect +12v to for the pump to kick on?


i tried wiring it directly to the battery, thats how i tested it. The first pump i got busted so i replaced it with new one, then i eliminated the pump problem.

Then i tried using a multimeter to gauge how many volts is flowing to the wires that plugs to the pump. and its only 0.03V. It must be 12V to operate the pump properly.


I mean which pump wire....


there are only 2 plugs going to the gas tank assemly, the 3 wire plug and the 2 wire plug.

the 3 wire plug is for the gas float

and the 2 wire plug for the fuel pump, the wires are black with red and pure black. this has 0.03V when turn-on key.
2012-10-01 17:51:37
#57
Test the wires individually, see if they're doing what they should. This will give you a better idea of where to go next. All you're doing is saying "these wires don't work but I don't know which one". The world of electronics is based around the individual wires, and not the whole plug, and you should test accordingly.

Additionally, are you turning on the key, then climbing back to test the wires? You need to test them the instant the key is turned on.
Last edited by WingmanSR20 on 2012-10-01 at 17-52-36.
2012-10-02 04:33:37
#58
Originally Posted by WingmanSR20
Test the wires individually, see if they're doing what they should. This will give you a better idea of where to go next. All you're doing is saying "these wires don't work but I don't know which one". The world of electronics is based around the individual wires, and not the whole plug, and you should test accordingly.

Additionally, are you turning on the key, then climbing back to test the wires? You need to test them the instant the key is turned on.


i am testing it first when the key is off (0.00V) then when turning on the multimeter will read a 0.03V.

I am also testing the continuity of every wire to secure that no faulty wirings.
2012-10-02 21:36:34
#59
Originally Posted by datsun_sky


i am testing it first when the key is off (0.00V) then when turning on the multimeter will read a 0.03V.

I am also testing the continuity of every wire to secure that no faulty wirings.


Are you testing them the instant the key is turned on or not?
2012-10-03 02:44:52
#60
Originally Posted by WingmanSR20
Originally Posted by datsun_sky


i am testing it first when the key is off (0.00V) then when turning on the multimeter will read a 0.03V.

I am also testing the continuity of every wire to secure that no faulty wirings.


Are you testing them the instant the key is turned on or not?


Yes I am testing the turned key both on and off.
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