Thread: Fuel pump won't prime and fuel pump fuse problem

^That problem is fixed.



^Ok cool. I'll go down there today and make sure it will idle on the stock ECU.

Not really..... It's blowing cause it's grounded and or the line has too much resistance so what happens is the current needs more push()and in return needs more amperage to make it complete the flow. Drawing too much amperage /grounded pops fuses
Reason why you buy them depending on amps all cars run similar voltage.
If you notice blower motor and the defogger have 30 amp fuses because they are speed regulated by resistance(resistor under the dash by blower motor)that requires more amps to flow through it.

Voltage doesnt blow fuses, amps do. Plain and simple electricity. You could run 24 volts through that fuse and wont blow unless you go above in amperage

I know that this is an old post but with the recent swap i had.

On my first crank, there's no lights appear in the dash then found out that the knots for the alternator was not lock up.

second crank, a buzzing sound, with the lights in the dash appear. without the oil since the oil sending unit was not plug. but the fuel pump doesnt work.

3rd cracnk, after replacing the fuel pump. it still didnt fire up. with the multimeter, the reading of the fuel pump plug is only 0.03V, then i tried reading the fuel pump then the turn key is on but still 2 out of the 4 lines has volt reading.
someone told me that it must be 3 lines with volt reading, as the ECM signal will activate the 3rd line going to fuel pump.

Guys, i need your help here.... thanks.

Beating a dead horse again I know, but have you double-checked the ground for the ECM, specifically the ones on the intake manifold? If you don't hear the pump prime for the 3-4 seconds after you turn the key on before you crank it, I'd start there.

thanks for answering, but i already manage to wire that ground.... that is the 2 wires for the ground in the intake manifold.

1 - What car?
2 - Did you check to see if the air regular is plugged into the knock? That was the cause of all my maddness.
3 - Fuses under dash good? Are they blowing for any reason?
4 - Relay under hood good? Did you swap with a spare to check?
5 - Did you run a + and - directly to the pump to see if it is in 100% working order?

1. B13 with original GA16 engine then swapped with VE
2. Air Regulator? - i've read a topic that the VE has none of it.
3. Unexpectedly, none of it blown
4. The relay under the hood is the one I suspected after the pump. Tried to swap an new relay but still no response.
5. I did a direct line to pump and it is running good.


I guess your number 2 question I suspected, the Air Regulator.....
But How?

manual or auto ga16 before the ve swap?

Bud, it has GA16DE with MT

I remember in my thread, i posted this:

connector going to main harness (dashboard harness) called F14 for 1.6:
1. Black Red - Ignition Switch
2. White - Fuse link (Power)
3. Yellow Black - FICD
4. Black Red - Air Regulator
5. Blue Black - ???? (i dont have any idea)

in this 5 wires I only tapped nos. 1 & 2 wires, and the remaining are all dead.