Thread: Fuel pump won't prime and fuel pump fuse problem

If you had the key on for a while then went back to touch the wires from the fuel pump connector to the pump it wont come on. The ecu does a 3-4 second prime and then kicks the pump off until cranking. So you would have to have it hooked up then turn the key from off to on in order to see if it kicks on.

Glad you found the connector problem. I know they are close and all but the knock sensor connector is alot longer wire coming out of the same loom as the oil pressure switch. While the Air regulator valve connector is with the coolant temp sensor plugs and so on.

Yeah im thinking your wiring to the pump is jacked up. Fix it and be good to go.

I guess I might have a spark issue as well. I'll cut the leg off my spare dizzy tomorrow and see what happens. My car has been garage kept for 11 months and the fuel pump had never been touched until now. I'm not sure how this could have occurred #smh.

1.) I think this might be a case where I oddly have two bad relays from when I had the air regulator plugged into the knock. I'm not sure if you guys read all the maddness from the first post, but I heard a buzzing noise when I first tried to crank the car on August 15th (First finished the car) and then again when I replaced the fuel pump relay with my spare that same day.



^Fuel pump connector



^DVOM - I had it set on V/DC.



^Here are the readings from the two brown wires. They read 11.72-9 with the ignition switch 'ON' and 'OFF'



^Red/Black wire is reading very low.(Probably from bad relay)
1.6 when the switch is 'OFF' and 4.1-6 when the switch is 'ON'



^Yellow/Black wire reading was jumping around a little bit, but it was reading about the same as the brown wires I believe.

ON A POSITIVE NOTE: I did fixed the rear two holes on my cross member and found out that the reason my brake lights would not go off was because the rubber grouments behind the brake pedal had deteriorated. Down to one problem now. I'm going to the dealer to buy two new relays as I was playing musical chairs and even switched the one by the ECU as it is the same as the fuel pump relay. The LED light on both my ECU's where on, so it should be grounded. I also do a test on the distributor and I have spark. I just hope from thinking back on everything that this is the last step from me getting my first taste of VVL in my daily.

EDIT: 1:30pm - Just orderd the two replacement relays from courtesy.

I was just made aware of this thread and ill check the ecu once I get it, but this thread says alot as far as to what went wrong. A guy named alex on here has a friend that crossed up the igniter plug with the o2 sensor plug and fried 2 factory ecu's before finding out what they did wrong.

I guess it's possible that could have happened, but first crank occurred with the stock ECU and that's when I heard the fuel pump relay buzzing. Then I replaced with the spare relay (stock ECU still plugged up) and it buzzed out again. Then I put the programmed ECU in once the pump stopped priming as I thought that might have been the problem.

I corrected the air regulator/knock connectors (thanks @javcrodgz and @sr20rules) and the fuel pump fuse stopped popping. I then replaced the fuel pump relay and the one beside the ECU and the fuel primed with the stock ECU, but not the with the basic board. I would think the stock ECU would be fried not the basic board, but again I guess it is possible.

P.S. Geo Let me know if I owe you anything/need to send you another ECU if it is fried.

If it fried the fuel pump trigger part of the ecu then you can do a jumper straight to ground from the ground side of the coil of that relay. The fuel pump is supplied 12v to trigger the relay when the ignition is on. I believe the brown is the 12v supply from the igniton and that what looks to be black w/ some color stripe (smaller gauge wire) is the one that runs to the ecu to trigger the fuel pump for prime and while the car is cranking and running. You can take a jumper from that wire and run it to ground and the fuel pump will be on when the key is on. Again assuming the rest of your wiring at the fuel pump and all is correct. Or you can cut it completely and solder in a new wire running to ground. Either way. It shouldnt have totally ruined the ecu by having those other connectors backwards.

Just use a jumper and give it a shot and see if your fuel pump comes on with the key "ON"

Awesome! Glad you got one of the issues resolved!

The fuel pump system is working properly now. It primes after I corrected the air regulator and purchased two new OEM relays. Now I just need to get the basic board checked out to see what is going on with that.

If anything I would think the stock ECU would have been toast, but it is fines.

Yeah thats what im sayin is if your basic board circuit for the fuel pump fried then you can just do the jumper like i said to where the fuel pump kicks on with the key on. The rest of the ecu should still work just fine as that circuit is seperate from everything else. Again that is assuming the board is toast and cant be reparied.

Damn reese that sucked. I am glad you got it figured out. This is why I have always labeled my harness before I take the motor out.