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Thread: Fuel pump won't prime and fuel pump fuse problem

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Posts: 11-20 of 62
2011-08-20 03:07:22
#11
Test #7 - Ok so I took my old my fuel pump (that's out of the car) and wired it directly to the relay slot (with the relay fuse out of course) on #5 and #2 of the connector and it kicked on with the car in the on position. I had to put a good fuse under the dash for it to work tho. I was in the car turning the ignition back and forward and the fuse under the dash has not blown during this test. (Bad ECU ground or Bad fuel pump ground?)

EDIT: slot #5 and #2.
Last edited by MR-4Door-SR20DET on 2011-08-20 at 05-28-07.
2011-08-20 03:17:33
#12
Have you tried doing the same test with the new pump? At this point I would drop in the old pump and try to crank the car on. I f everythings goes fine with the old pump, means that the new walbro was faulty somehow.
2011-08-20 03:54:21
#13
Originally Posted by P10FTW
Sounds like something is grounding out. Check for any piched wiring, also check for bare wiring on the alternator subharness by the connectors.


Originally Posted by Doctor
Agreed seems like a 12v Wire is shorting somwhere.


Originally Posted by P10FTW
Have you tried doing the same test with the new pump? At this point I would drop in the old pump and try to crank the car on. I f everythings goes fine with the old pump, means that the new walbro was faulty somehow.


all good advice.

Deff sounds like a bad ground, a short etc.

Stratton.
2011-08-20 04:20:35
#14
What are the wire colors of #1 and #2 slots?
2011-08-20 04:25:22
#15
Test #8 - Well I'm still stuck again. I decide to get two wires (connected to the battery) and run them straight to the fuel pump (in the tank) and it kicks on. I go to crank it, but it will not crank. I did this with the relay (under the hood) out. Is that the reason it wouldn't crank? I had to do it that way, bc with the relay in, the fuel pump fuse under the dash will blow. O_o
Last edited by MR-4Door-SR20DET on 2011-08-20 at 04-34-59.
2011-08-20 04:42:16
#16
Originally Posted by SR20s
What are the wire colors of #1 and #2 slots?


Actually it was #5 and #2

5 = red/black
2 = brown

^But this was done with the old pump out of the car. I'm going to try some different combos with the pump in the car on the relay connector and see what I get.
Last edited by MR-4Door-SR20DET on 2011-08-20 at 04-59-14.
2011-08-20 21:34:49
#17
Dude, get a blown fuse and solder a brake bulb or similar onto the spades, break away some of the plastic to get to the metal parts. The fit the fuse and turn the ignition on, the bulb will glow bright if there is a direct short to earth. Then start removing plugs, components, earths, the ecu etc until you find the bulb goes out/dims. This will help you track the location of the fault, and saves a bucket load on fuses.
2011-08-20 22:06:07
#18
I'm reading all of this, and it seems you're focusing on components rather than wiring. If the fuse is blowing under the dash, you're going to have an issue after the fuse block. Do a complete wire trace and inspect it on it's way through the car. It's time consuming yes, but the best way to have a definite answer.

What Evlnxr suggested is a great idea to try and cut down on your searching time by identifying where the break may be located. The only other thing I can think of is the pump is trying to draw more amperage than it should, that can be tested by running wires from the battery to the pump like you did and putting an ammeter between the pump and +12v line and see what it's drawing.
2011-08-20 22:59:58
#19
Alright, sorry i didnt reply to the pm but i figured you would have gotten it by now.

If this started happening right after you replaced your fuel pump which im assuming by what you have posted.

Now, couple questions.

When you first turn the key on does the fuel pump fuse blow right away? Or do you hear the pump try to go the blows the fuse.

Here is the thing to do. Unplug your fuel pump. Turn the key on and see if the fuse blows. If it doesnt blow you have a problem with the wiring of the pump or the pump itself or something is shorting out on the pump side of the connector. If it still blows you know you have a wiring problem between your fuse box, to the relay, to the fuel pump. The power wire after the relay is the red with black, i cant recall what color the wire is on pin 3 of the relay. You would need to trace that back from the relay to the fuse panel 15 amp fuse. See if your wiring between your fuse panel and the fuse box got pinched, cut, rubbed through anywhere on the harness. Shouldnt be too hard. Maybe in the wheel well where it runs into car. Again check all for any rub marks, wear marks, cuts, and so on.

If this happened after the pump install then im almost certain you messed up the wiring to the pump or the pump is bad that you put in. I know on our b13's the original wires inside the tank like to fray and insulation come off. Make sure you didnt pinch the wire between the tank and the fuel pump/fuel level assembly that is bolted down with the ring. Depending on how you wired it up there could have been excess wire and might not have seen it get caught between the sharp edge of the tank and the assembly before bolting it down.

So try that stuff. Unplug the fuel pump, turn key on and if it doesnt blow you know where your problem lies. If it does, then you still know a general area of where the problem lies.

Good luck
2011-08-20 23:46:12
#20
Originally Posted by javcrodgz
I had a very similar issue with Jeremy's B14. I'm not sure if the B13 has the same sensor (assuming it does since the highports have a cold idle air regulator), but on the B14, the Cold Idle Air Reg is on the same circuit as the fuel pump. What was happening was the connector for the Air Reg was grounding itself, therefore blowing the fuse for the FP. Just throwing it out there as a possibility as the VE doesn't use this same sensor so the connector in the engine bay just sits there. Charles' procedure is a good start though.


^Thank you so much! This and the help of @sr20rules thinking that I might have mixed up the air regulator connector and knock connector since they are so close and the same was the case. My blown fuse problem is now gone.

^So I put everything back normal and the pump is still not kicking on with the switch in the 'ON' position. Now the wiring/connector for the pump must have a fault. The gas tank hand will now work. Not sure how that ties into the pump connector tho.

^ So I decide to get the old pump and put two wires on the end of it and stick them into the connector while the switch is in the 'ON' position nothing. Still working at this, but at least I'm not popping fuses anymore. Thanks for all the replies.
Last edited by MR-4Door-SR20DET on 2011-08-22 at 04-38-10.
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