Thread: Long Rod SR

well i am curios on how we correctly find the rod ratio. if some one can post the exact formula for it that would be great. in my head the math is just rod length divided by stroke.

Okay kids, lets all play nice, or you can take your ball into the timeout chair...

thanks for cleaning the thread up cliff

I made math mistake. I actually don't know how I came up with those numbers.

The other guy made a significant figures rounding error though.

I don't trust sleeved blocks because I never have had luck with them when used in actual racing other than drag racing with Nissans Hondas and LS Motors. Many have had excellent results on the street or for short run racing like drag racing.

Not me. I have an SR blocked at 90mm sleeved by one of the best machine shops that only does this sort of work. The sleeves dropped while just sitting in my garage even though the machine shop told me that he did many and this has never happened before. Needless to say this brand new block is still sitting. Anyone want to buy it?

Our LS powered drift car is aways dropping sleeves even though the machine shop says we have done hundreds of these and your is the only one to do this. Dropping sleeves may have cost us the Formula D championship.

Other friends who race Honda's and other things have problems when doing time attack or road racing.

My theory is that when the sleeve is pressed in, aluminum can peel up and sit on the bottom register acting like a spring so when the block is surfaced the sleeve is actually a little high. When in the motor and subjected to heat and combustion pressure, the little shavings compress and bammo you loose seal.

I think this is why the Darton MID sleeves are loose and not interference fit. Maybe I will try these but I am sorta sour on the whole sleeve thing. Also remember that cutting away your whole block also reduces the structural integrity of the whole thing.

Its sorta why I am kinda over the SR20. You can build a super rock strong K24 and easily make 280 na hp all day in any kind motorsports. The main reason why I still race Sentras is that they are really cheap to race and Nissan has a good racer support program.

And Mike K's comment was modified before a moderator could view the thread in it's entirety.

AGAIN,

Play nice, or take your ball and go sit in timeout. LAST TIME I'm going to say it.

thanks for explaining mike, i see what your saying now.

Well that answers my questions on whether or not I am investing in a big-block.

I want to be able to occasionally drive my Classic around a road course. And if I let someone else drive (MartinG-35, Chriscar, etc....) it might even go around the course quickly. Therefore, I am not going to risk an expensive big-block going "boom" on a road-course during a 20-minutes at red-line track session.

I'll just do a bolted-on VE, with proper gauges, and if necessary an oil or transmission cooler.


We are in 100% agreement.

that's one thing i need to invest in with my setup is some proper gauges, I'm planning on getting oil press, oil temp and water temp gauges so i can keep an eye on everything..
Not that i do any road racing but i do drag racing an would be nice to Know how everything's doing..

I'm still set on a big bore if i can ever afford it, although i may just go turbo instead..


i think you would do just fine with a VE Shawn, especially since you have had a DE so long, it will be like a breath of fresh air

Mike, what about a 88mm max bore on stock sleeves? Do you still find that route to risky? I'm going 92mmx86mm regardless bc it will be a street car, but I have another VE I could go 88mm on just to see how it turns out.

Thanks You for admitting you made a MISTAKE!!!!

The correct way to do the sleeves is to machine the block to 35 micro smaller than the sleeves diamter. The sleeve need to have a shamver wat the bottom due to the cutter not being able to cut perfect 90 deg and always have a rond edge at the bottom. When pressing them in that have a tendance to lift the sleeve.

I warm the block to 200 deg C and drop them in while the block is warm. Then have a deck plate to clamp the new sleeves down while the slowly cool donw. I have done a dozen blocks personlly and haven;t had any issues