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Thread: clutch cable.

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Posts: 11-20 of 38
2011-05-30 17:24:32
#11
Do the clutch cables tend to strech out cuz mine is tight but the peddle is almost on the floor if so could I get a new one at advanced autos
2011-05-30 17:34:03
#12
Yes, I used to use some large washers that had an Inner Diameter just large enough for the part that normally goes into the bracket on the trans to fit through but not large enough to go over the rest of that sleeve basicly just moving the cable back further from the bracket. I used 3 washers I believe they had a 1 1/8" inner diameter and outer diameter of 2 1/2 or so. Worked fine. Im now hydraulic so no more crappy clutch cables for me. Although, I never broke one. I had one that was close to breaking at the part where it attaches to the pedal. The sleeve was starting to crack and break but never broke. I changed it out anyways because it was being notchy. I bought 2 new ones from Greg V when I got my car just in case and didnt use them for two years, my buddy used one and i used the other when I switched it out. Then i took it out a couple months later when i switched to hydraulic and still have a new cable sitting around in case a friend needs it.
2011-05-30 18:08:49
#13
you do not have to remove the bolts that hold the diamond thing on the firewall? does the rubber grommet just snap into it once you hook it up?
2011-05-30 18:17:21
#14
yes, it looks exactly like the end that goes on the clutch cable bracket on the trans. Just slides in and braces against that sleeve on the firewall. Thats all it does. Nothing is holding it in there. you can yank it right out once the cable is disconnected from the pedal. Not hard at all people. When putting the new one in you can slide it right through that sleeve and push on the cable and it pops right in. Only difficult part is getting your hand under there to push the cable in the sleeve and yes if you dont know exactly where your grabbing, disconnecting the part from the pedal can be tricky. Just have the pedal up off the floor as if you wernt pressing the pedal at all, put your thumb in the hole and your other fingers around the back side of the pedal and lift the cable off the hook on the pedal. That easy. You guys are making this way more harder than it has ever been or was inteded to be.
2011-05-30 18:41:40
#15
Originally Posted by gomba
GA16 I believe is a few inches shorter but should work.

Keep a spare in your trunk for next time it breaks

-G


Or go hydraulic and never worry again
2011-05-30 19:09:20
#16
Originally Posted by kzoosho
Or go hydraulic and never worry again


not worth the hassle imo. I've never had a cable snap, but I have taken it off as it needed some oil. It's so easy to change, no reason for me to go hydraulic. To each their own I suppose.

FYI, to anyone noticing it getting harder and harder to push in your clutch cable -- just take it off and oil it up. It's like a new cable after that. Mine has this issue over time due to the way it's routed which puts a little more of a bend in the cable.

-G
2011-05-30 19:18:04
#17
Lol. Not worth never snapping a cable ever? Being able to run whatever clutch u want? Took me 20 mins to swap master and pedal and I'm also running a LSD b15 box
2011-05-30 23:27:34
#18
What do you mean any clutch you want??? Is it that certain clutches snap the cable ?
2011-05-30 23:33:34
#19
The heavier pressure plates snap cables. Ask me how I know.
2011-06-14 05:55:07
#20
Thought I would do a follow up on this lol
All clutch cables arnt the same.
I pulled 3 different cables at the junk yard.. a 91,92,and 93
None fit... I went to the parts store, GA16 and SR20 have different part numbers.

But anyway, thanks for all the help and info.
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