Originally Posted by ashtonsser
LOL, dude ive been doing this a long long time. Im not that young but yes maybe younger than you. But ive built and built and built SR after SR and if the timing chain is off one tooth on the crank you are talking about 15 deg or so. Which is highly noticeable on both checking with an extension down on the piston and looking at the cam sprockets and where they are supposed to be at. The dowell pins are supposed to be at 12 oclock exhaust and 10 oclock on the intake. The 12 oclock on the exhaust is the easiest to eyeball. If you have even one tooth off on the cam which is about 7 deg or so you will still easily be able to tell its not exactly at 12 oclock on the dowel pin. Once you have the exhaust perfectly at 12 oclock count 20 pins on the chain over to the next dot. You have to have 20 pins inbetween. If you do then you know your intake cam is at the right position as well and the cams are timed with each other and the crank.
Not hard man. You dont need the links to tell you where exactly they need to be at. thats for manufacturing purposes only and for full rebuild purposes only. Not trying to start a pissing match but ive done this way too many times and yeah, I can tell by looking at it. And since his car is still running really really good its more than likely his cam timing is correct. His issue with the whole cant get any more than 15 deg out of the distributor is something else. Either not in timing mode correctly or its something with the jwt ecu.
LOL, dude ive been doing this a long long time. Im not that young but yes maybe younger than you. But ive built and built and built SR after SR and if the timing chain is off one tooth on the crank you are talking about 15 deg or so. Which is highly noticeable on both checking with an extension down on the piston and looking at the cam sprockets and where they are supposed to be at. The dowell pins are supposed to be at 12 oclock exhaust and 10 oclock on the intake. The 12 oclock on the exhaust is the easiest to eyeball. If you have even one tooth off on the cam which is about 7 deg or so you will still easily be able to tell its not exactly at 12 oclock on the dowel pin. Once you have the exhaust perfectly at 12 oclock count 20 pins on the chain over to the next dot. You have to have 20 pins inbetween. If you do then you know your intake cam is at the right position as well and the cams are timed with each other and the crank.
Not hard man. You dont need the links to tell you where exactly they need to be at. thats for manufacturing purposes only and for full rebuild purposes only. Not trying to start a pissing match but ive done this way too many times and yeah, I can tell by looking at it. And since his car is still running really really good its more than likely his cam timing is correct. His issue with the whole cant get any more than 15 deg out of the distributor is something else. Either not in timing mode correctly or its something with the jwt ecu.
Its definatly not the ECU, do you know how shitty it would run with the timing that advanced? The thing would be knocking like crazy if the base timing was at like 27 degrees or whatever? It HAS to be something mechanical , as thats what the base timing is, simply mechanical timing, and the ECU digitaly changes the ignition timing. I'm thinking maybe the camshaft may be ground wrong or something...either that or maybe the timing chain is streched that far? Thats a possibility as well...lets work on figuring out what it IS not what its NOT, the mechanical timing orientation of the cams to the crank.