Thread: Issue after Clutch Replacement

looks about right ^^

I've been meaning to report back on how I finally resolved my clutch issue. The problem is described in the first post of this thread, but basically involved grinding when going into reverse, and difficulty shifting into first, at a stop, after a clutch replacement.

Since I had not used alignment dowels, that was the first thing I wanted to address in trying to fix the problem. I pulled the tranny and took everything off down to the flywheel. I installed OEM alignment pins in the VE block at both of the proper locations. I also removed and reinstalled the new friction surface on the Fidanza flywheel. After bolting the flywheel to the crank, I checked the runout of the flywheel and found it to be within specs. I then put everything back together and replaced the MT90 with fresh MT90. The result was improvement but not resolution of the problem. I had to drive the car for 10 minutes instead of 5 minutes before the problem manifested itself. Then it was not quite as bad -- I felt that the issue was perhaps 25% fixed, but not really an adequate resolution.

At this point, I concluded that the issue was most likely caused by the clutch that I was using. Either I had an incorrect part or a part was out of spec due to damage, manufacturing flaws, or bad design. So I called CAP clutch to discuss. They suggested that the issue was a stretched clutch cable. As a result of this discussion, I started to focus on the cable and clutch activation parts. I sourced and installed a new OEM cable. This made no difference. Then I tried the reinforced clutch bracked that Miko fabricates. This is a nice part and definitely limits bracket movement, but it did not resolve my particular problem.

So, I went back to the hypothesis that the clutch parts themselves were causing the issue. The only way to test this hypothesis was to buy a completely different clutch from a different manufacturer and install it. Based on a reference in another thread on this Forum, I went to ClutchNet and bought their clutch kit #21919NCUII. This clutch was developed specifically for VE transplants in consultation with a competition-oriented Nissan club. My kit came with a sprung organic disc and the pressure plate is supposed to provide 65% increase in clamping force. It was $400 shipped. The kit arrived on time and in good shape, but there was no throw out bearing included (as had been represented on the phone). An email inquiry about the TOB generated no response, indicating to me that I should not expect much in the way of customer support in the future.

Anyway, I installed the new ClutchNet pressure plate and disc with the TOB from the CAP kit, alignment dowels, and the Miko reinforced clutch bracket holding a new Nissan cable. I had to use the 3/4" spacer on the clutch bracket to get proper adjustment. The grinding problem seems to be totally resolved. Shifting into reverse and first at a stop with the engine idling is smooth as butter. The clutch action is noticeably stiffer at the pedal, but easy to get accustomed to. The clutch appears to grab very effectively, although I am still breaking it in. I am sending the old Exedy clutch back to CAP so that they will know what happened, but I don't expect a refund since it's been over a year since I bought it.

Case closed.

yea from experience them pins are wildly important. it probally damaged the clutch when you didn't have them there...

That's an interesting thought. Reckon that could really happen?

i think so since when the pins are gone the clutch gets twisted as it engauges and disengauges. hence why the springs eventually pop out without the pins.