Ok, I decided not to run a new wire to the knock sensor. Especially since I can't find any damn shielded wire. I thought of something interesting today. I remember looking at the FSM the other day. The page for testing the knock sensor circuit shows the wiring diagram for it, and the shielding around the knock sensor wire goes to the chassis ground. My educated guess being to ground out interference that is filtered out. A voltage can be induced into a wire from any other wire close to it with current flowing through that wire. It's a magnetic flux thing. That could send voltage to the ECU creating a false positive (code 34) if it's not grounded out. I found out that the knock sensor harness goes through the injector harness then to the main harness through the firewall. That little gray two wire plug is for the knock sensor. One wire is the signal, the other is the shielding. My shielding wire had got a little skinned up, and was showing copper. Also when I peeled back the wire loom and untaped everything the crimp connector was corroded under the tape. I cut it off and ran another wire to reground it. I also found out that the TPS, and MAF harness are both shielded in the same way, with both of them also needing ground. I went ahead and regrounded them as well. This is all to keep interference from getting back to the ECU creating false positives. We all know what kind of ground issues that our old cars have developed since their birth. Most of us have ran a mile or two no new ground wire. lol. Oh, and I also grounded my intake manifold to the chassis. I did this thinking that the thermoblok spacers I put on it may be harming the ground. I will report back later and let yall know if this has helped. I'm taking a break now, and haven't started the car yet.
Be the first to like this post.
I'll look up the KS now.
Back to top